Furnace Safety Tips

It's important to maintain your furnace for safety and operating efficiency. Follow the tips listed for the type of furnace in your home.

Floor furnace

• Avoid lint build-up by vacuuming the floor furnace and the area around it regularly.
• Keep children away from the grill, as it gets very hot.
• Avoid fires - don't place rugs, furniture or combustible items over or near the grill and do not block the airflow.

Wall furnace

• Clean inside the burner compartment of built-in, vented wall furnaces once a month during the heating season to prevent lint build-up or in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.
• Never place combustible items on or near the appliance or vent.

Central gravity furnace and central forced-air heating

• Keep furnace heat registers free of obstructions.
• Don't store items nearby that might stop or restrict airflow.
• Many gas furnaces use air from the indoors to operate. Lint, dust and pet hair carried by air, or items stored in or around the furnace can block or restrict airflow. In order to operate safely and efficiently, your gas furnace must be kept free of dust and lint build-up and other obstructions stored near the furnace. Never store or use flammable products, such as newspapers, flammable liquids or cleaning products near the furnace.
• Most forced-air furnaces have a filter that cleans the air before heating and circulating it throughout the home. Inspect your filter monthly for lint build-up during periods of furnace use. Clean or replace the filter if necessary. Replacing filters often can improve appliance efficiency and reduce your energy consumption.
• When installing a new or cleaned filter, be sure to re-install the front panel door of the furnace properly so it fits snugly. Never operate the furnace without the front-panel door properly in place because doing so may create the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning.
• Most new forced-air furnaces have a safety (interlock) switch that prevents furnace operation when the filter compartment door/panel is not in place.
• Note: some older forced-air furnaces do not have a safety switch and can be operated with the filter compartment door or panel off or not properly in place.

Unvented Space Heaters 

• Always install and use unvented space heaters in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.
• Unvented space heaters are not to be used as the sole source of heat in your home.

Energy Savings Tips for Winter

Fast and Free 

Cutting back unnecessary energy use is an easy way to keep your hard earned money in your pocket. Here are some suggestions you can do at home, at absolutely no cost to you. 

Let the sunshine in. Open drapes and let the sun heat your home for free (get them closed again at sundown so they help insulate).

Rearrange your rooms. Move your furniture around so you are sitting near interior walls - exterior walls and older windows are likely to be drafty. Don't sit in the draft.

Keep it shut. Traditional fireplaces are an energy loser - it's best not to use them because they pull heated air out of the house and up the chimney. When not in use, make absolutely sure the damper is closed. Before closing the damper, make sure that you don't have any smoldering embers. If you decide not to use a fireplace, then block off the chimney with a piece of rigid insulation from the hardware store that fits snugly into the space (dampers don't shut fully without some leaking).

Eliminate wasted energy. Turn off lights in unoccupied rooms. Unplug that spare refrigerator in the garage if you don't truly need it - this seemingly convenient way to keep extra drinks cold adds 10-25 percent to your electric bill. Turn off kitchen and bath-ventilating fans after they've done their job - these fans can blow out a house-full of heated air if inadvertently left on. Keep your fireplace damper closed unless a fire is burning to prevent up to 8 percent of your furnace-heated air from going up the chimney.

Shorten showers. Simply reducing that lingering time by a few minutes can save hundreds of gallons of hot water per month for a family of four. Showers account for 2/3 of your water heating costs. Cutting your showers in half will reduce your water heating costs by 33 percent.

Use appliances efficiently. Do only full loads when using your dishwasher and clothes washer. Use the cold water setting on your clothes washer when you can. Using cold water reduces your washer's energy use by 75 percent. Be sure to clean your clothes dryer's lint trap after each use. Use the moisture-sensing automatic drying setting on your dryer if you have one.

Put your computer and monitor to sleep. Most computers come with the power management features turned off. On computers using Windows, open your power management software and set it so your computer goes to sleep if you're away from your machine for 5 to 15 minutes. Those who use Macintosh computers look for the setting in your Control Panels called "Energy Saver" and set it accordingly. When you're done using your computer, turn it off (see next tip). Do not leave it in sleep mode overnight as it is still drawing a small amount of power.

Plug "leaking energy" in electronics. Many new TVs, VCRs, chargers, computer peripherals and other electronics use electricity even when they are switched "off." Although these "standby losses" are only a few watts each, they add up to more than 50 watts in a typical home that is consumed all the time. If possible, unplug electronic devices and chargers that have a block-shaped transformer on the plug when they are not in use. For computer scanners, printers and other devices that are plugged into a power strip, simply switch off the power strip after shutting down your computer. The best way to minimize these losses of electricity is to purchase ENERGY STAR® products.

Inexpensive Energy Solutions 

Every home is different. With a quick trip to your local hardware store, you have even more choices at hand. 

Choose ENERGY STAR® Products. Replace incandescent light bulbs with ENERGTY STAR compact fluorescent light bulbs, especially in high-use light fixtures. Compact fluorescent lights use 75 percent less energy than incandescent lights.

Plug your home's leaks. Install weather-stripping or caulk leaky doors and windows and install gaskets behind outlet covers. Savings up to 10 percent on energy costs.

Install low flow showerheads. If you do not already have them, low-flow showerheads and faucets can drastically cut your hot water expenses. Savings of 10-16 percent of water heating costs.

Wrap the hot water tank with jacket insulation. This is especially valuable for older water heaters with little internal insulation. Be sure to leave the air intake vent uncovered when insulating a gas water heater. Savings up to 10 percent on water heating costs.

Good Energy-Saving Investments

Do you need any new appliances, or are you planning to do some remodeling? Consider these energy efficiency suggestions before you purchase. 

Choose ENERGY STAR appliances and electronics. When buying new appliances, choose ENERGY STAR-certified models. For example, a new ENERGY STAR refrigerator uses about 20 percent less energy than a standard new refrigerator, and 46 percent less than one made in 1980. A new Energy Star® clothes washer uses nearly 50 percent less energy than a standard washer.

Install a programmable thermostat. If you have a heat pump, select a model designed for heat pumps. Set-back thermostats can save up to 15 percent on energy costs.

Increase ceiling insulation. If your ceiling is uninsulated or scantily insulated, consider increasing your insulation to up to R-38 to reduce heating costs by 5-25 percent.

Seal ducts. Leaking ductwork accounts for more than 25 top 30 percent of heating costs in an average California home. Consider hiring a contractor to test the tightness of your ducts and repair leaks and restrictions in your duct. Many utilities have programs to assist you. Check out the Flex Your Power Web site for rebate and consumer programs or contact or local utility.

High-efficiency windows. If you are planning to replace your windows, choosing ENERGY STAR windows can reduce your heating and cooling costs by up to 15 percent.

Winter Checklist for Your Home

1. Tune up your heating system.

For about $80 to $100, a technician will inspect your furnace or heat pump to be sure the system is clean and in good repair, and that it can achieve its manufacturer-rated efficiency. The inspection also measures carbon-monoxide leakage.

Read more at http://www.kiplinger.com/article/real-estate/T029-C000-S001-fall-and-winter-home-maintenance-checklist.html#cw7pxmkJTcacYjfr.99If you act soon, you’ll minimize the chance of being 200th in line for repairs on the coldest day of the year. he contractor should follow the protocol for ACCA’s "national standard for residential maintenance" (or the QM, short for “quality maintenance").

2. Reverse your ceiling fans

If your ceiling fan has a reverse switch, use it to run the fan’s blades in a clockwise direction after you turn on your heat. Energy Star says the fan will produce an updraft and push down into the room heated air from the ceiling (remember, hot air rises). This is especially helpful in rooms with high ceilings -- and it might even allow you to turn down your thermostat by a degree or two for greater energy savings.

3. Prevent ice dams.

If your home had lots of icicles last winter -- or worse, ice dams, which can cause meltwater to back up and flow into your house -- take steps to prevent potential damage this year. A home-energy auditor or weatherization contractor can identify and fix air leaks and inadequate insulation in your home’s attic that can lead to ice dams. If you have the work done before December 31, 2011, you can claim the federal energy-efficiency tax credit for 10% of the cost (excluding installation), up to $500. Your state or utility may offer a rebate, too.

4. Hit the roof.

Or at least scan it closely with binoculars. Look for damaged, loose or missing shingles that may leak during winter’s storms or from melting snow. If need be, hire a handyman to repair a few shingles ($95 to $1275, according to www.costhelper.com) or a roofer for a larger section ($100 to $350 for a 100-square-foot area). Check and repair breaks in the flashing seals around vent stacks and chimneys, too.

If your roof is flat and surfaced with asphalt and pebbles, as many are in the Southwest, rake or blow off fall leaves and pine needles, which hold moisture, says Bill Richardson, past president of the American Society of Home Inspectors, in Albuquerque. (Don’t sweep aside the pebbles; that will expose the asphalt to damaging sunlight.)

5. Caulk around windows and doors. 

Richardson says that if the gaps between siding and window or door frames are bigger than the width of a nickel, you need to reapply exterior caulk. (Check the joints in window and door frames, too.) Silicone caulk is best for exterior use because it won’t shrink and it’s impervious to the elements. Try GE’s Silicone II Window and Door product, which is “rain ready” in three hours ($6 at Home Depot). Check window-glazing putty, too (which seals glass into the window frame). Add weatherstripping as needed around doors, making sure you cannot see any daylight from inside your home.

6. Clean the gutters. 

If your gutters are full of detritus, water can back up against the house and damage roofing, siding and wood trim -- plus cause leaks and ice dams. You’ll typically pay $70 to $225 to clean gutters on a single-story house, depending on its size. Also look for missing or damaged gutters and fascia boards and repair them.

7. Divert water. 

Add extensions to downspouts so that water runs at least 3 to 4 feet away from the foundation, says David Lupberger, home-improvement expert for ServiceMagic, which connects consumers with service providers. For example, HomeDepot.com sells Amerimax Flex-a-Spout extension (which extends 25 to 55 inches) for $9.

8. Turn off exterior faucets. 

Undrained water in pipes can freeze, which will cause pipes to burst as the ice expands. Start by disconnecting all garden hoses and draining the water that remains in faucets. If you don’t have frost-proof faucets (homes more than ten to 15 years old typically do not), turn off the shut-off valve inside your home.

9. Drain your lawn-irrigation system. But call in a professional to do the job. Your sprinkler service will charge $75 to $150, depending on the size of the system. Draining sprinkler-system pipes, as with spigots, will help avoid freezing and leaks.

10. Mulch leaves when you mow. Mow your leaves instead of raking them, say studies at the University of Michigan and Purdue. The trick is to cut the leaves, while dry, into dime-sized pieces that will fall among the grass blades, where they will decompose and nourish your lawn over the winter. Use your lawn mower without its bag, and optionally swap the cutting blade for a mulching blade (about $15 to $20). The process may take several passes. For more information, see "Turn Over a New Leaf/Mulching Leaves in Place."

11. Prepare to stow your mower. 

As the mower sits through the winter, fuel remaining in its engine will decompose, "varnishing" the carburetor and causing difficulty when you try to start the engine in the spring. John Deere offers these preventive steps: If you've added stabilizer to your fuel to keep it fresh longer, then fill the gas tank to the top with more stabilized fuel and run the engine briefly to allow it to circulate. If not, wait until the tank is nearly empty from use and run the engine (outdoors) to use up the remaining fuel. Check your mower's manual for other cold-weather storage steps.

12. Don't prune trees or shrubs until late-winter. 

You may be tempted to get out the pruning shears after the leaves fall, when you can first see the underlying structure of the plant. But horticulturalists advise waiting to prune until late winter for most plants, when they've been long dormant and just before spring growth begins. To get advice specific to your plants and region, consult master gardeners at local nurseries or horticulturalists with your state university's cooperation extension department. One exception: You may need to hire an arborist to remove deadfall or trim limbs close to your home or power lines that could cause problems in a winter storm.

13. Test your sump pump. 

Slowly pour several gallons of water into the sump pit to see whether the pump turns on. You should do this every few months, but especially after a long dry season or before a rainy one. For more complete instructions for testing and maintenance, check your owner’s manual. Most sump pumps last about ten years, according to Chubb Personal Insurance.

14. Call a chimney sweep. 

Before you burn the Yule log, make sure your fireplace (or any heating appliance burning gas, oil, wood or coal), chimney and vents are clean and in good repair. That will prevent chimney fires and prevent carbon monoxide from creeping into your home. Search for a sweep certified by the Chimney Safety Institute of America. You can expect to pay $50 to $90 for an inspection to see if you need a cleaning, and $100 to $300 for the cleaning, according to www.costowl.com.

15. Avoid the rush. 

Don’t wait for the first winter storm to restock cold-weather essentials, such as salt or ice melt. If you can’t abide a snowblower’s roar or the back-breaking workout of shoveling, check out the Sno Wovel, a wheeled shovel that does much of the heavy-lifting for you ($150; go to www.wovel.com to locate retailers or Amazon.com to buy it online).

Lawn Tips for Fall

Keep on Mowing

Continue to water and mow your lawn, as needed, throughout the fall. Then as the season draws to a close, drop the mower's blade to its lowest setting for the last two cuttings of the year. That will allow more sunlight to reach the crown of the grass, and there will be less leaf to turn brown during the winter. 

*Note: As you lower the blade, just remember not to trim off more than one-third of the grass blades at any one time. If necessary, gradually lower the cutting height until the time of the final two cuttings. 

Aerate the Soil

Fall is also an ideal time to aerate your lawn so that oxygen, water, and fertilizer can easily reach the grass's roots. You can rent a gas-powered, walk-behind lawn aerator for about $70 per day. The self-propelled machine will quickly punch holes into the soil and extract plugs of dirt. If you've got a very large yard—say, more than 3 or 4 acres—and don't feel like aerating it yourself, hire a landscaping contractor. 

Rake the Leaves

I know raking leaves is no one's idea of fun, but it's important to remove fallen leaves from your lawn as soon as possible. Don't wait until all the leaves have fallen from the trees to start raking. If you do, the leaves will become wet from rain and morning dew, stick together, and form an impenetrable mat that if left unmoved will suffocate the grass and breed fungal diseases. 

An alternative to raking leaves is to use a lawnmower fitted with a collection bag or vacuum system. These methods are particularly effective if you have a very large yard with many deciduous trees. Regardless of whether you use a rake or a lawnmower, just be sure to remove the leaves before they turn into a soggy, suffocating mess. 

Fertilize for Future Growth

Most lawn experts agree: If you fertilize your lawn only once a year, do it in the fall. The reason? Grass leaves grow much more slowly as the weather turns cool, but the grass roots and rhizomes continue to grow quickly. (Rhizomes are the horizontal plant stems that lie just beneath the soil's surface; they produce the blades of grass above and the roots below.) A fall application of fertilizer delivers essential nutrients for the grass to grow deep roots now and to keep nutrients on reserve for a healthy start next spring. 

Wait until mid-to-late fall, then apply a dry lawn fertilizer to all grassy areas; be careful not to miss any spots. You could use a crank-style broadcast spreader, but for optimum coverage, consider using a walk-behind drop spreader. It takes a little longer, especially on hilly yards, but a drop spreader provides the best way to apply an even, consistent layer of fertilizer. 

Fill in Bald Spots

Autumn is also a great time of year to fix any bare, bald spots in your lawn. The quickest, easiest way to do this is with an all-in-one lawn repair mixture. Sold at most garden shops and home centers, this ready-to-use mixture contains grass seed, a special quick-starter lawn fertilizer, and organic mulch. 

Use a garden rake to scratch loose the soil at the bald spot in your lawn. Then spread a thick layer of the lawn repair mixture over the area. Lightly compact the mixture, then water thoroughly, and continue to water every other day for two weeks. 

Weed Control

If broadleaf weeds like dandelions have taken over your lawn, now's the time to fight back. Weeds, like most plants, are in the energy-absorbing mode during the fall. They're drinking in everything that comes their way, including weed killers. Apply an herbicide now and the weeds won't return in the spring. 

Read the package label before use. Most herbicide manufacturers recommend applying the weed killer during early-to-mid autumn, when daytime temperatures are consistently above 60 degrees Fahrenheit

Getting Your Home Ready for Fall

Get your mind in the gutters. Your roof's drainage system annually diverts thousands of gallons of water from your house's exterior and foundation walls. That's why it is so important to keep this system flowing smoothly. Clogged gutters can lead to damaged exterior surfaces and to water in your basement. They are also more prone to rust and corrosion. Before the leaves fly this fall, have your gutters cleaned, then covered with mesh guards to keep debris from returning.

Button up your overcoat. A home with air leaks around windows and doors is like a coat left unbuttoned. Gaps in caulk and weather-stripping can account for a 10% of your heating bills, according to the U.S. Department of Energy.

Weather-stripping is easily the most cost-effective way to rein in heating and cooling costs. This humble material also reduces drafts and keeps your home more comfortable year-round. Because weather stripping can deteriorate over time, it is important to inspect it periodically.

If you suspect a problem with weather stripping, you have several options for checking. Close a door or window on a strip of paper; if the paper slides easily, your weatherstripping isn't doing its job. Or, close the door or window and hold a lighted candle near the frame. (Don't let the flame get near anything flammable!) If the flame flickers at any spot along the frame, you have an air leak.

While you're at it, also check for missing or damaged caulk around windows, doors, and entry points for electrical, cable, phone, gas, and so. Seal any gaps with a suitable caulk.

Get on top of roof problems. Few homeowner problems are more vexing than a leaky roof. Once the dripping starts, finding the source of the problem can be time-consuming. Stop problems this fall before ice and winter winds turn them from annoyances into disasters.

Here's how: Inspect your roof from top to bottom, using binoculars if necessary. Check ridge shingles for cracks and wind damage. Look for damage to metal flashing in valleys and around vents and chimneys. Scan the entire roof for missing, curled, or damaged shingles. Look in your gutters for large accumulations of granules, a sign that your roof is losing its coating; expect problems soon. Finally, make sure your gutters are flowing freely.

Note: Roof-mounted television antennas, even if they aren't in use, may have guy wires holding them in place. Look for loose or missing guy wires. If you see some, and your antenna is no longer being used, consider having it removed altogether.

Walk the walks (and drives). Damaged walkways, drives, and steps are a hazard year round, but their dangers are compounded when the weather turns icy. Fixing problems in the fall is also critical to preventing little problems from becoming expensive headaches.

Look for cracks more than 1/8-inch wide, uneven sections, and loose railings on steps. Check for disintegration of asphalt, or washed-out materials on loose-fill paths.

Most small jobs are well within the ability of a do-it-yourselver, but save major repairs for experienced hands.

Chill out. If you live in an area with freezing weather, take steps to ensure that outside faucets (also called sill cocks) and inground irrigation systems don't freeze and burst.

Here's how: Close any shut-off valves serving outside faucets, then open the outside faucet to drain the line. (There may be a small cap on the faucet you can loosen to facilitate this draining.) If you don't have shut-off valves, and your faucets are not "freezeproof " types, you may benefit from styrofoam faucet covers sold at home centers.

To freezeproof an inground irrigation system, follow the manufacturer's procedure for draining it and protecting it from winter damage.

Freshen your filter. Furnace filters trap dust that would otherwise be deposited on you furniture, woodwork, and so on. Clogged filters make it harded to keep your home at a comfortable temperature, and can serious increase your utility bills. A simple monthly cleaning is all it takes to keep these filters breathing free and clear.

Here's how: Disposable filters can be vaccumed once before replacement. Foam filters can also be vaccumed, but they don't need to be replaced unless they are damaged. Use a soft brush on a vacuum cleaner. If the filter is metal or electrostatic, remove and wash it with a firm water spray.

Give your furnace a physical. Once a year, it's a good idea to have your heating system inspected by a professional. To avoid the last-minute rush, consider scheduling this task in early fall, before the heating season begins.

Here are signs that you should have an inspection performed sooner:

Noisy belts. Unusual screeches or whines may be a signal that belts connected to the blower motor are worn or damaged.

Poor performance. A heating system that doesn't seem to work as well as it once did could be a sign of various problems. Your heating ducts might be blocked, the burners might be misadjusted, or the blower motor could be on its last legs. One check you should be sure to conduct: Make sure your furnace filter is clean.

Erratic behavior. This could be caused by a faulty thermostat or a misadjusted furnace.

Gather round the hearth. Even if you use your fireplace only occasionally, you should check it annually for damage and hazards.

Inspect your flue for creosote. Creosote is a flammable by-product of burning wood. If it accumulates in a flue or chimney, the result can be a devastating fire. Have your chimney inspected annually for creosote buildup. If you use a fireplace or wood stove frequently, have the flue inspected after each cord of wood burned.

For most people, the best option is to have your entire chimney system inspected by a chimney sweep. Once you know what to look for, you can perform the inspection by shining a bright flashlight up the flue, looking for any deposits approaching 1/8 inch thick. These deposits should be cleaned by an experienced chimney sweep.

Look for flue blockages. Birds love to nest at the top of an unprotected flue. A chimney cap can prevent this from happening. If you don't have a cap, look up the flu to ensure that there are no obstructions.

Exercise the damper. The damper is the metal plate that opens and closes the flu just above the firebox. Move it to the open and closed positions to ensure that it is working properly.

Check your chimney for damage. Make certain that the flue cap (the screen or baffle covering the top of the chimney) is in place. Inspect brick chimneys for loose or broken joints. If access is a problem, use binoculars.

Keep the humidifier humming. You may know that bone dry winter air is bad for your health, but did you also know it can make fine wood more prone to cracking? You and your home will feel more comfortable if you keep your central humidifier in tip-top shape during the months it is running.

Here's how: First, inspect the plates or pads, and if necessary, clean them in a strong laundry detergent solution. Rinse and scrape off mineral deposits with a wire brush or steel wool.

Head-off gas problems. Keeping a gas heater in good shape is both a safety and a cost issue. An improperly maintained heater can spew poisons into the air of your home, or it may simply be costing you more to operate. Have a professional check these devices annually. There are also some maintenance items you should address.

Here's how: First, shut off the heater. Then check the air-shutter openings and exhaust vents for dirt and dust. If they are dirty, vacuum the air passages to the burner and clean the burner of lint and dirt. Follow the manufacturer's advice for any other needed maintenance.

Keep the wood fires burning brightly. Woodburning stoves are a great way to add atmosphere and warmth to your home. But regular inspections are needed to ensure that these devices don't become a safety hazard. Here's how to check them.

Inspect stovepipes. Cracks in stovepipes attached to wood stoves can release toxic fumes into your home. Throughout the heating season, you should check for corrosion, holes, or loose joints. Clean the stovepipe, and then look for signs of deterioration or looseness. Replace stovepipe if necessary.

Look for corrosion and cracks. Check for signs of rust or cracking in the stove's body or legs.

Check safety features. Make sure that any required wall protection is installed according to the manufacturer's specifications and that the unit sits on an approved floor material. If you have young children, be sure to fence off the stove when it is in operation.

At least once a year, do a top-to-bottom review of your home's safety features. This is also a good time to get the family together for a review of your fire evacuation plan. Here's how to do this:

Smoke and CO detectors. Replace the batteries in each smoke and carbon monoxide (CO) detector, then vacuum them with a soft brush attachment. Test the detectors by pressing the test button or holding a smoke source (like a blown-out candle) near the unit. If you haven't already, install a smoke detector on every floor of your home, including the basement.

Fire extinguishers. Every home should have at least one fire extinguisher rated for all fire types (look for an A-B-C rating on the label). At a minimum, keep one near the kitchen; having one per floor isn't a bad idea. Annually, check the indicator on the pressure gauge to make sure the extinguisher is charged. Make certain that the lock pin is intact and firmly in place, and check that the discharge nozzle is not clogged. Clean the extinguisher and check it for dents, scratches, and corrosion. Replace if the damage seems severe. Note: Fire extinguishers that are more than six years old should be replaced. Mark the date of purchase on the new unit with a permanent marker.

Fire escape plans. Every bedroom, including basement bedrooms, should have two exit paths. Make sure windows aren't blocked by furniture or other items. Ideally, each upper-floor bedroom should have a rope ladder near the window for emergency exits. Review what to do in case of fire, and arrange a safe meeting place for everyone away from the house.

General cleanup. Rid your home of accumulations of old newspapers and leftover hazardous household chemicals. (Check with your state or local Environmental Protection Agency about the proper way to discard dangerous chemicals.) Store flammable materials and poisons in approved, clearly labeled containers. Keep a clear space around heaters, furnaces, and other heat-producing appliances.

US Home Construction Jumps 15.7 Percent

 U.S. home construction rebounded in July, rising to an eight-month high and offering hope that housing has regained momentum after two months of declines.

Construction increased 15.7 percent in July to a seasonally adjusted annual rate of 1.09 million homes, the Commerce Department reported Tuesday. That was the fastest pace since November and followed declines of 4 percent in June and 7.4 percent in May.

Applications for building permits, considered a good sign of future activity, also showed strength in July, advancing 8.1 percent to an annual rate of 1.05 million, after declines of 3.1 percent in June and 5.1 percent in May.

The July rebound reflected strength in single-family home construction, which rose 8.3 percent, and in apartment construction, which was up 33 percent.

The strength in July was led by a 44 percent rise in construction starts in the Northeast. Housing construction was up 29 percent in the South, recovering from a 26.8 percent plunge the month before blamed in part on heavy rains in that part of the country. Sales rose 18.6 percent in the West but fell 24.8 percent in the Midwest.

Economists noted that the July performance was much better than expected, and June was revised significantly higher, both good signs for the future.

Sal Guatieri, senior economist at BMO Capital Markets, said solid job growth and a recent decline in mortgage rates were helping boost construction. But he said weak wage growth and tight lending standards were still depressing activity, especially among first-time buyers.

A report Monday indicated homebuilders are feeling more confident about their sales prospects, a hopeful sign that home construction and sales of newly built homes could pick up after stalling in recent months.

The National Association of Home Builders/Wells Fargo builder sentiment index rose in August to 55, up two points from a revised 53 for July. That is the third straight monthly increase and put the index at its highest reading since January, when it was 56. Readings above 50 indicate more builders view sales conditions as good rather than poor.

Builders' views of current sales conditions for single-family homes, their outlook for sales over the next six months and traffic by prospective buyers all increased in August, brightening the outlook.

Sales of new homes are running behind last year's pace. They fell 8.1 percent in June to a seasonally adjusted annual rate of 406,000.

A mix of rising home prices, higher mortgage rates and weak wage growth have made it more difficult for potential buyers to buy a newly built home. These factors have particularly depressed demand by first-time buyers.

But economists are still looking for a rebound, given the fact that the U.S. economy has been adding jobs at a healthy clip with gains topping 200,000 jobs for six straight months through July.

Housing, while still a long way from the boom of the last decade, has been recovering over the past two years. Though new homes represent only a fraction of the housing market, they have an outsize impact on the economy. Each home built creates an average of three jobs for a year and generates about $90,000 in tax revenue, according to data from the Home Builders.

6 Essential Steps to be Sale-ready After Memorial Day

1. Tackle The Obvious Repairs
If you’re planning to list your home at the start of fall, you now have 30 to 45 days to tackle all the necessary and obvious repairs.Why is it so important to check these off your to-do list ahead of time? First and foremost, it’ll prevent potential buyers from being distracted as they tour your home. Instead of making a mental list of what needs to be fixed, they’ll be able to focus on your home’s positive qualities. You’ll also save time (and money) later by avoiding back-and-forth negotiations over minor repair issues. And doing the repairs yourself, ahead of time, saves you from having to foot the bill for the estimated, and often over-inflated, cost of repairs! (Your actual cost will almost always be less than a buyer’s post-inspection estimate).

2. Remove Your Clutter And Junk Now

Clutter eats equity and kills deals. Period. It’s time to declutter, freeing up more visual space in your home. Look at each item in your house, and decide to save it, store it, sell it, or chuck it.  The concept that ‘less is more’ is at the heart of making a home sellable. Once you’ve gotten rid of what you’re not using, edit and organize the rest. Living space is an extremely precious commodity, and a little extra breathing room, along with a sense of expansiveness, makes your home feels luxurious, calming, and uplifting. And, as obvious as this seems, a buyer will naturally be drawn to, and pay more for, a home that feels bigger.

3. Depersonalize Your Home

I guarantee there is far too much of “you” in your house. It’s time to take down the collectibles, family heirlooms, school photos, and other highly personal mementos. Not that those treasures aren’t amazing – I have a house full of family heirlooms, but now’s not their time in the spotlight. I recommend this, because when it comes to selling, you want a slate that’s blank enough to allow potential buyers to visualize themselves in the home, and to them, your memorabilia is just more stuff, so put it away for now!

4. Remove Anything Polarizing

When clearing out the house, remove any controversial elements – which translates primarily to anything religious or political. Many people have strong emotional reactions to these types of items. Don’t give your buyer a chance to prejudge your home because of your political or religious beliefs.

5. Pump Up the Curb Appeal

First impressions are everything, and a pretty face, err façade, will get buyers in the front door. Right now, you can get a jump on your curb appeal by taking advantage of the spring growing season. This is the time to plant grass and flowering plants. And don’t forget to trim up the trees and bushes. By sale day, your curb appeal will be in full bloom and ready for the stream of willing buyers. Remember, you never get a second chance to make a first impression. That’s why curb appeal – the way your house looks from the street – is so critical.

6. Get A Reality Check

We all have an idea of what our house is worth, but I can promise you that those self-appraisals are not going to be objective.  An educated seller makes smarter decisions.  It’ll give you an automated value estimate and help you connect with agents who can give you an even more detailed and accurate price. For some homes, it’ll also show you what other homes in your area have recently sold for—this is helpful for getting to know the competition. A quick survey of other homes in the area will be immensely helpful for helping you get to that perfect list price.

Getting a head start on the summer sale season by preparing your house (and yourself) gives you a significant leg up come list time. A bonus pay off: Your agent will be thrilled to know that you’ve done your homework and have a realistic view of what your house is really worth!

Home Sales Climb to an 8 Month High!

Sales of previously owned U.S. homes climbed in June to an eight-month high as more listings helped prices cool, luring buyers into the market.

Sales increased 2.6 percent to a 5.04 million annual rate last month, led by gains in all four U.S. regions, figures from the National Association of Realtors showed today in Washington. The median forecast of 78 economists surveyed by Bloomberg projected sales would rise to a 4.99 million rate. Prices advanced at the slowest pace since March 2012 and inventories rose to an almost two-year high.

Historically low interest rates and smaller price increases are helping bring homeownership within reach for more Americans. A pickup in employment opportunities that lead to faster wage growth would provide an added spark for a residential real-estate market that began to soften in the middle of 2013.

“We’re recovering from the winter doldrums, more people are working and interest rates are attractive,” said Brian Jones, senior U.S. economist at Societe Generale in New York, who projected a 5.05 million pace of sales for June.

Estimates in the Bloomberg survey of economists ranged from a sales pace of 4.8 million to 5.11 million after May’s previously reported 4.89 million.
Photographer: Daniel Acker/Bloomberg

Historically low interest rates and smaller price increases are helping bring... Read More

Another report today showed the cost of living rose in June, paced by a jump in gasoline that is now reversing. The consumer price index increased 0.3 percent after a 0.4 percent gain the prior month, figures from the Labor Department showed today in Washington. The core measure, which excludes volatile food and fuel costs, rose 0.1 percent, less than projected.

Stocks Climb

Stocks held earlier gains, with benchmark gauges rebounding from yesterday’s slide, as data showed inflation has failed to gain a toehold and investors assessed corporate earnings. The Standard & Poor’s 500 Index advanced 0.5 percent to 1,983.56 at 10:42 a.m. in New York.

Compared with a year earlier, purchases of previously owned properties decreased 2.3 percent in June on an adjusted basis, today’s report showed.

The median price of an existing home increased 4.3 percent to $223,300 in June from $214,000 a year before.

“We are getting sales increases in all price points -- roughly a single-digit pace,” Lawrence Yun, NAR chief economist, said at a news conference today as the figures were released. Demand has picked up “except for the very low end.”

First-time buyers accounted for 28 percent of all purchases in June, matching the average over the past year.

Credit Access

“Access to affordable credit continues to hamper young, prospective first-time buyers,” Steve Brown, co-owner of Irongate Inc., NAR president and a Realtor in Dayton, Ohio, said in a statement.

The number of existing properties on the market rose 6.5 percent to 2.3 million in June from a month earlier, the most since August 2012. At the current pace, it would take 5.5 months to sell those houses, the same as in May. The inventory of unsold homes was up from 2.6 million a year earlier.

The median time a home was on the market decreased in June to 44 days from 47 days in the prior month. Forty-two percent of homes sold in June were on the market for less than a month.

“Things are flying very fast,” Yun said. Sales have seen a “nice jump in the last three months but it is underperforming in my view” compared with the fundamentals, he said.

By Region

The existing home-sales advance was led by a 6.2 percent gain in the Midwest, followed by a 3.2 percent increase in the Northeast. Purchases rose 2.7 percent in the West and 0.5 percent in the South.

Purchases of single-family homes increased 2.5 percent to an annual rate of 4.43 million, the report showed. The sales pace of multifamily properties including condominiums climbed 3.4 percent to 610,000 in June, also the highest since October.

Cash transactions accounted for about 32 percent of all purchases in June, according to the report. Investors made up 16 percent of purchases.

Sales of distressed property, including foreclosures, accounted for 11 percent of the total last month, matching the lowest share since October 2008.

Existing-home sales, which are tabulated when a purchase contract closes, are recovering from a 13-year low of 4.11 million in 2008 after reaching a record 7.08 million in 2005. They climbed to 5.09 million for all of 2013.

The housing market continues to face hurdles to its recovery -- from shortages in construction and labor to mortgage rates that remain elevated compared with early 2013.

The pace of home construction slumped 9.3 percent to an 893,000 annualized rate from a 985,000 pace in May that was weaker than initially estimated, figures from the Commerce Department showed last week.

Mortgage Rates

The average rate for a 30-year fixed mortgage was 4.13 percent in the week ended July 17, according to Freddie Mac in McLean, Virginia. While down from 4.53 percent at the start of the year, it’s higher than the 3.35 percent in May 2013.

At the same time, homebuilders are optimistic the market. A report last week showed confidence among homebuilders rose in July to the highest level in six months. The National Association of Home Builders/Wells Fargo sentiment measure climbed to 53 from 49 in June, the Washington-based group reported. Readings above 50 mean more respondents said conditions were “good.”

More Paint

Sherwin-Williams Co. (SHW), the largest U.S. paint retailer, is among companies seeing a boost as homeowners remodel and redecorate their homes. The Cleveland, Ohio-based company reported sales and income that beat analysts’ projections and raised its earnings estimate for the year as customers bought more paint.

“If you look at the quality of the existing-home transactions that are occurring now versus a year or two years ago, there’s a far lower percentage of those transactions that are distressed or foreclosure type sales,” Robert Wells, senior vice president of corporate communications, said on a July 17 earnings call. “The owner-occupant selling to a new owner-occupant is the transaction that generates the more painting activity. We think we’re benefiting from that shift.”

Stay Cool With These Money Saving Tips

• Don’t allow the interior of your home to become uncomfortably hot because the air conditioner cannot cool it down within a reasonable amount of time. Air conditioners are designed for about a 20° change in temperature, so 100° air would only be cooled to about 80°.

• One of the simplest air conditioner tips is to change your air conditioner filter at least four times a year to ensure that your family is breathing cleaner air and your HVAC system is not being overworked. It could save energy and money!

•  Run your ceiling fans to stay cooler in the summertime. Check your fans to ensure they are going in the correct direction. In the summer, your fan should be set on “forward,” which means the blades are rotating counter-clockwise. There is a switch on the base where you can control this.

• It is fairly common for an air conditioner to ice up. The air conditioner drain line can also freeze, backup and cause a leak, which is often confused for a plumbing leak. When this happens, immediately turn off your compressor by switching your thermostat over to fan. As the ice starts to melt, make sure you have proper drainage and call a professional.

• From dirty coils to poorly-designed ductwork, there are many things that can restrict airflow. One of our professionals can check them all and get to the root of the problem.

• Keep heat out of your home by closing blinds, shades and draperies that cover windows facing the sun. Close coverings on east-facing windows in the morning and west-facing windows in the afternoon. Also, installing shades or blinds that are white reflects heat away from the house. This can keep you cooler and help save energy.

• Keep your outdoor air conditioning unit cooler by planting trees or shrubs that provide shade but still allow air to flow around the unit. By properly shading the area, your system can perform up to 10% more efficiently. Also, be sure the landscaping isn’t too close to the unit, so a technician can service it easily when necessary.

• The best defense against air conditioner problems is to have an annual home service plan in place and make sure your system is maintained year-round, especially right before the heavy heat of summer sets in. Regular tune-ups reduce your risk of experiencing common malfunctions and will help you stay cool.

• Don’t let heat build up in your home. Appliances, electronic devices and lighting are all common sources of internal heat gain. To combat this excess heat, avoid putting lamps or televisions near your air conditioner’s thermostat. These heat-generating appliances can cause the thermostat to think the house is warmer than it really is, resulting in the system running longer than necessary and wasting energy.

Keeping a Green Lawn All Summer

According to Audubon.org, the average homeowner spends roughly 40 hours mowing their lawn each year, and we Americans spend $8.5 billion on lawn care products and equipment. Lawns are a major part of the gardening scene, with millions of acres in this country alone.

Keeping a lawn in tip-top shape can be a big job, but here is an approach that is a little more relaxed than others. 

Fertilizing your Lawn
I only fertilize my lawn a couple of times a year, once in the spring and then again in midsummer with a food specially blended for lawns. You'll find these blends higher in nitrogen than other elements (the first number in a series of numbers on the fertilizer bag). Nitrogen is what stimulates vigorous growth and deep green color. 

I feed only a couple of times a year because I discovered that fertilizing more often meant too much growth — I was working myself to death trying to keep it mowed and watered. So, by reducing the amount of fertilizer, I've saved myself time and energy. Also, by allowing my grass to grow longer, just by an inch or so more in summer, I've reduced my watering a bit more. The taller blades of grass cut down on water evaporation from the soil.

Fertilizing can be confusing because there are so many different blends out there to choose from. For instance, there are some that actually have pre-emergent herbicide mixed with the fertilizer to keep weed seeds from germinating. Turf growers have told me that if you are going to use pre-emergents, it's better not to use the blends because they're not as effective as applying pre-emergents separately from the fertilizer.

Fertilizer Spreader
It's always best to fertilize your lawn after mowing and when the grass is dry. If the grass is wet, the fertilizer will stick to the blades and burn the lawn.
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I prefer using a spreader because it ensures equal distribution of the fertilizer across the lawn, and I always load the spreader on a sidewalk or a drive just in case I spill some, which I usually do.

To get even distribution, I set the gauge at a low setting and go over the area several times, making sure that each pass of the spreader overlaps the last. This will give the lawn a nice even color without dark streaks from over-fertilized areas.  After I have fed it, I just water it in.

Lawnmower Tips
The lawn mower can be one of the most neglected tools in the garden, and that's pretty ironic when you consider it's also one of the most expensive.

To keep your mower in tip-top shape, start by disengaging the spark plug. This should be done anytime you are working on your mower. Next, drain the gasoline and oil from your lawn mower.  Any gasoline that stays in the tank for over a year can gum up your carburetor. You can handle these jobs by using just a few things from around the house.

A turkey baster is great for extracting the gasoline from the tank. It works better and easier than turning the mower upside down. For collecting the oil, try using a disposable aluminum roasting pan. After you've collected it, you'll want to dispose of it responsibly. You'll find many automobile maintenance businesses take used motor oil for recycling, and this is the most environmentally safe way to discard it.

Next, you should replace the spark plug. It's the spark plug that ignites the engine. If it's worn or corroded, you'll have difficulty starting your mower. Spark plugs are inexpensive and easy to replace.

When preparing your lawnmower for spring you should also clean the air filter and remove any old grass or debris clogging the fins of the engine cover.

And one last tip, take your mower in and have the blade sharpened and balanced. This will keep the engine working more efficiently and you will get a smoother cut on your grass.

Watering
It's best to water in early morning, very early, like 5 a.m. This gives the lawn an opportunity to dry before nightfall, a time when many types of fungus are most active. This is also usually a non-peak time for most communities' water supply. It's also much better to water early only a couple of times a week than to water lightly more often. Deep soaking encourages deep root growth, whereas light watering encourages the roots to stay close to the surface of the soil, making your lawn more susceptible to heat and drought.

Another thing to keep in mind is that an actively growing lawn this time of year will require about 1 to 1.5 inches of water per week. This of course will depend on your soil type.  Lawns can be a source of pride — just don't let the summer heat get the most of it, and you.

Brown spot repair
According to several Web sources, more than 60 million Americans own dogs and that means that many of these pet owners are facing the challenge of brown spots on their lawns.

What causes the brown spot? It's just like over-fertilizing! There is a high nitrogen content in pet urine, which causes the urine to burn the grass.  The number one thing pet owners can do to avoid brown spots is to water the area well within eight hours to dilute the high nitrogen level. When these spots go untreated you'll need to reach for the repair kit to green the grass back up. Grass repair kits are sold commercially or you can make your own by mixing sand, seed and slow-release fertilizer. 

Design Trends in 2014

1.  Passive Homes

One of the most prevalent trends in the architectural world today is the shift towards a reduction in the consumption of energy; a reduction in carbon emissions, a focus on green principles.  The passive home deals with this entire issue of wasted energy and carbon emissions, and it’s because of this solution which PassivHaus provides which has made them the center of focus and architectural design thus far in 2014.

Passive homes will be a strong trend in 2014; but mark our words that this trend will continue to swell year on year for the foreseeable future.

2.  Designing for Relaxation

It has been said that the living of today are exposed to more information in one day (content of the New York Times) than an average person in the 17th century is exposed to in their entire lifetime.  One could argue that the type of information a person of the 17th century was exposed to is of a different kind of information in which most of us today would be blind to; but let’s focus in on the principle of information overload.

The fact is that most people don’t know how to organize and process the sheer volumes of information they face everyday; what’s important and what isn’t; etc.  It’s for this very reason more and more people are turning an area of their home into a place of retreat; a place to relax and unwind.  The most popular choice in 2014 is the home spa; a place where one can escape to and unwind. 

The home spa industry is growing at a healthy rate.  In quarter four of 2013, it grew by 10% compared to the same quarter the previous year.  It just so happens I’m a statistician by education, but it doesn’t take a statistician to tell you that a 10% increase is significant and shouldn’t be brushed aside.  The home spa industry is healthy and will continue to be a favorite in architectural design in 2014.

Further evidence of this trend can be demonstrated through new builds in the United States.  Over 50% of new builds are now equipped with a whirlpool bath.

3.  Flex Rooms

What are flex rooms?  Flex rooms are rooms or areas in the house which have a range of uses, or could be changed at some point during the year.  It’s usually a place in the house which is used for more than one purpose, for example an entrance hall also being used as a dining room.

Why is this a popular trend and why will it be strong in 2014?  The strength behind this trend can find its strength in three main factors; baby boomers, income and versatility.

Let’s start with baby boomers.  Architects are now designing homes to accommodate the growing elderly population who are opting to stay with family.  These houses have to be well organized, usually segregated from the rest of the house in some way in a self contained unit.  This allows for separation between the family (sanity preservation) and it also allows the living space to be rented out if need be.

Secondly, income.  As disposable income has dropped significantly and pensions lost in the crash of 2008, retirees have been forced to move in with their families as they simply can’t afford to live by themselves, or pay for a retirement home.

Thirdly, versatility.  Options are empowering and give the homeowner choices.  Flex rooms enable maximum usage with the space given; maximum usage output per square foot of living space – It also allows for change of use if so required.

4.  Health Conscious Designs

The materials which are used in building, decorating and furnishing the home are an issue which is being addressed by architects and designers.

Paints, upholstery, insulation, wood stain and other synthetic materials used in the home which cause hypoallergenic reactions and possible serious health problems are being replaced with those which don’t have such negative side effects.

Alternatives to these potentially unhealthy materials are always available, it’s just a matter of sourcing them at a price which clients are willing to pay.  It may be a matter of selling the potentially significant health benefits of these materials to help overcome the potential cost increase; the winning strategy to win their approval.  It’s just like the concept: If you have never had a heart attack, eat and live as though you have had one, to prevent (or at least reduce the risk) that problem from occurring.

In the same vein, architects are looking to cut down on the hypoallergenic and prospective carcinogenic materials, a trend which we’ll see in 2014.

5.  Kitchens: Hub of the Home

This is one which we particularly like; the kitchen being the focal point of the home.  No longer will the kitchen be that room which is built in the dark recesses of the house – Now it’s being elevated to center stage.  The kitchen is set to be the room in the house which is being used for more than just cooking.  We are seeing it being used as a place to think, study and work in addition to whole range of other multitasking uses.

It’s a similar dynamic to the flex home, but more specific.  Having the kitchen as the hive of activity within the house is great for bringing the family together and strengthening relationships.  It’s the trend for 2014 which should continue for years to come.

6.  Inventive Storage Capacity

You might have noticed while driving around the massive, often bold colored storage locker buildings; they’re everywhere.  It seems like this trend has grown like an out-of-control garden over the past 10 years, but there is a fundamental reason for it.  People have acquired so much ‘stuff’ they don’t know what to do with it, so much so that they are paying monthly payments to store their junk precious items in storage.

Without tackling the underlying problems that would be the job of psychiatry professionals; architects realize the need and are catering for it.  More storage space is obviously needed in the home, and they are designing varied solutions with style & finesse.  Clutter around the house can be unsightly, and in a world of design where less is more, clutter needs to be dealt with; even if it’s merely storing it.

Again, based on need, this trend is a growth trend which’ll be popular in 2014.

7.  Utilizing the Outdoors

Where the outdoors was once a place exclusively for the garden or yard, it is now being used for outdoor rooms.  The advance of outdoor eco-friendly materials has enabled architects to become more creative with the use of outdoor areas.  Space is a valuable commodity, so it makes logical sense that this trend is growing; especially as population growth increases whilst house prices remain staunch.  The trend will be especially popular in areas where the weather is kind, but even in places such as the U.K. you’ll find brave and creative architects making it work.
outdoor room 10 Hottest Fresh Architecture Trends in 2014

Tips for Being Summer Ready

After a long winter, summer's bright sun and warm winds are, well, a breath of fresh air. The only downside? All that sunshine spotlights your leaf-filled gutters, cracked sidewalks and the dead plants in last year's flower beds. Dwight Barnett, a certified master inspector with the American Society of Home Inspectors, shared this checklist to help you target the areas that need maintenance so you can get your chores done quickly, leaving you time to go outside and play in the sunshine.

    •    Check for loose or leaky gutters. Improper drainage can lead to water in the basement or crawl space. Make sure downspouts drain away from the foundation and are clear and free of debris.

    •    Low areas in the yard or next to the foundation should be filled with compacted soil. Spring rains can cause yard flooding, which can lead to foundation flooding and damage. Also, when water pools in these low areas in summer, it creates a breeding ground for insects.

    •    Use a screwdriver to probe the wood trim around windows, doors, railings and decks. Make repairs now before the spring rains do more damage to the exposed wood.

    •    From the ground, examine roof shingles to see if any were lost or damaged during winter. If your home has an older roof covering, you may want to start a budget for replacement. The summer sun can really damage roof shingles. Shingles that are cracked, buckled or loose or are missing granules need to be replaced. Flashing around plumbing vents, skylights and chimneys need to be checked and repaired by a qualified roofer.

    •    Examine the exterior of the chimney for signs of damage. Have the flue cleaned and inspected by a certified chimney sweep.

    •    Inspect concrete slabs for signs of cracks or movement. All exterior slabs except pool decks should drain away from the home's foundation. Fill cracks with a concrete crack filler or silicone caulk. When weather permits, power-wash and then seal the concrete.

    •    Remove firewood stored near the home. Firewood should be stored at least 18 inches off the ground at least 2 feet from the structure.

    •    Check outside hose faucets for freeze damage. Turn the water on and place your thumb or finger over the opening. If you can stop the flow of water, it is likely the pipe inside the home is damaged and will need to be replaced. While you're at it, check the garden hose for dry rot.

    •    Have a qualified heating and cooling contractor clean and service the outside unit of the air conditioning system. Clean coils operate more efficiently, and an annual service call will keep the system working at peak performance levels. Change interior filters on a regular basis.

    •    Check your gas- and battery-powered lawn equipment to make sure it is ready for summer use. Clean equipment and sharp cutting blades will make yard work easier.

Home Sales Up 6.4% in April

Following two consecutive months of declines, sales of new, single-family homes rose in April to reach an annual rate of 433,000 - about 6.4% above the estimated March rate of 407,000 but 4.2% below the April 2013 rate of 452,000 - according to figures released by the U.S. Census Bureau and the Department of Housing and Urban Development.

The median sales price of new homes sold in April was $275,800. The average sales price was $320,100.

About 192,000 new homes were listed on the market in April - about a 5.3-month supply at the current sales rate.

Minutes of the Federal Reserve's April 29-30 policy meeting released earlier this week indicate that the slowdown in home sales has caught the attention of the Fed. Officials cited a range of factors for the weakness, including "higher home prices, construction bottlenecks stemming from a scarcity of labor and harsh winter weather, input cost pressures, or a shortage in the supply of available lots," according to the minutes of the Federal Open Market Committee.

Meanwhile, sales of previously owned homes rose 1.3% in April, with the inventory of existing homes for sale reaching the highest level in nearly two years, according to data released this week by the National Association of Realtors.

And mortgage rates continued to trend downward for a third week, with the average rate for a 30-year fixed-rate mortgage falling to 4.14%, according to Freddie Mac's Primary Mortgage Market Survey.

Whether the increased inventory and lower rates will result in increased home sales in June remains to be seen.

Getting Your Home Summer Ready

Before it gets too warm, it's time to make sure you're ready for hot weather. This doesn't mean running out and buying the latest swim wear. It means checking your home's heat and air-conditioning system.

Change Your Filters
First, change your filters in your heating/cooling system. Change them regularly as recommended by the manufacturer.

Test Your System
Next change your thermostat over to "cool" and test the system by turning the temperature down. If the air conditioner does not turn on, first check to make sure no breakers are tripped. If you can't figure out the problem, call your heating and air conditioning repair person. Calling early may keep you from making an "emergency" call when the temperatures are soaring and the repair people are too busy.

If your cooling system turns on, make sure it is putting out adequate cooling. If it's not, and you can't figure out the problem, call your heating and air conditioning repair person. Make sure you set it at 78 degrees.

Replacing Your AC Unit
If your air conditioner needs replacement do it BEFORE the HOT WEATHER HITS because heating & air conditioning repair people will be very busy. And more than likely, some other things around your home need attention as well. Your air ducts may need testing for leaks and then sealed. Your attic insulation probably has compacted, so you may need to add more. Your windows and doors and other parts of the building envelope may need caulking and weather stripping. You may need solar window film to keep out the heat.

Thermostat Changes
Consider changing your old thermostat to a programmable one. You can save up to $100 a year by using a new set-back thermostat. If your thermostat is really old and uses a mercury switch (a glass tube filed with silvery substance) call your local public works department to find out how to dispose of this toxic material.

Cooling the House
Consider installing a whole-house fan that uses cool air in the evening to cool the entire house and push hot air out of the attic area.

The Process of Building a Home

Building your new home is exciting, especially when you understand how the process works. The following overview outlines the typical steps in the construction of a home and will help keep you abreast of what happens at key stages.

1. Prepare site and pour foundation:
Often, site preparation and foundation work are performed by the same crew, but this may not be the case with a wooded lot. Using a backhoe and a bulldozer, the crew clears the site of rocks, debris and trees for the house and, if applicable, the septic system. The crew levels the site, puts up wooden forms to serve as a template for the foundation, and digs the holes and trenches. Footings (structures where the house interfaces with the earth that supports it) are installed. If your home is going to have a well, it will be dug at this point.

If the home has a full basement, the hole is dug, the footings are formed and poured, and the foundation walls are formed and poured. If it’s slab-on-grade, the footings are dug, formed and poured; the area between them is leveled and fitted with utility runs (e.g. plumbing drains and electrical chases); and the slab is poured.

Once concrete is poured into the holes and trenches, it will need time to cure. During this period, there will be no activity on the construction site.

After the concrete is cured, the crew applies a waterproofing membrane to the foundation walls; installs drains, sewer and water taps and any plumbing that needs to go into the first-floor slab or basement floor; and backfills excavated dirt into the hole around the foundation wall.

INSPECTION #1: When the curing process is complete, a city inspector visits the site to make sure foundation components are up to code and installed properly. This inspection may be repeated depending on the type of foundation (slab, crawl space or basement). Your builder will then remove the forms and begin coordinating step 2, the framing phase.

2. Complete rough framing: The floor systems, walls and roof systems are completed (collectively known as the shell or skeleton of the house). Plywood or oriented strand board (OSB) sheathing is applied to the exterior walls and roof, and windows and exterior doors are installed. The sheathing is then covered with a protective barrier known as a house wrap; it prevents liquid water from infiltrating the structure, while allowing water vapor to escape. This reduces the likelihood of mold and wood rot.

3. Complete rough plumbing, electrical and HVAC: Once the shell is finished, siding and roofing can be installed. At the same time, the electrical and plumbing contractors start running pipes and wires through the interior walls, ceilings and floors. Sewer lines and vents, as well as water supply lines for each fixture, are installed. Bathtubs and one-piece shower/tub units are put in place at this point because there’s more room to maneuver large, heavy objects.

Ductwork is installed for the heating, ventilation and air-conditioning (HVAC) system, and possibly the furnace. HVAC vent pipes are installed through the roof, and insulation is installed in the floors, walls and ceilings.

After the roofing goes on, the house is considered “dried in.” The electrician then installs receptacles for outlets, lights and switches and runs wires from the breaker panel to each receptacle. Wiring for telephones, cable TV and music systems is included in this work.

Note that HVAC ducts and plumbing are usually installed before wiring, because it’s easier to run wires around pipes and ducts than vice versa.

INSPECTIONS 2, 3 and 4: Rough framing, plumbing and electrical and mechanical systems are inspected for compliance with building codes. Most likely these will be three different inspections. At the very least, the framing inspection will be conducted separately from the electrical/mechanical inspections.

At this stage, drywall (also known as plasterboard, wallboard or gypsum board) is delivered to the building site. Sheetrock®, a registered trademark of USG Corporation, is sometimes used as a generic term for drywall.

4. Install insulation: Insulation plays a key role in creating a more comfortable, consistent indoor climate while significantly improving a home’s energy efficiency. One of the most important qualities of insulation is its thermal performance or R-value, which indicates how well the material resists heat transfer. Most homes are insulated in all exterior walls, as well as the attic and any floors that are located above unfinished basements or crawl spaces.

The most common types of insulation used in new homes are fiberglass, cellulose and foam. Depending on the region and climate, your builder may also use mineral wool (otherwise known as rock wool or slag wool); concrete blocks; foam board or rigid foam; insulating concrete forms (ICFs); sprayed foam; and structural insulated panels (SIPs).

Blanket insulation, which comes in batts or rolls, is typical in new-home construction. So is loose-fill and blown-in insulation, which is made of fiberglass, cellulose or mineral-wool particles. Another insulation option, liquid foam, can be sprayed, foamed-in-place, injected or poured. While it costs more than traditional batt insulation, liquid foam has twice the R-value per inch and can fill the smallest cavities, creating an effective air barrier.

Fiberglass and mineral-wool batts and rolls are usually installed in side walls, attics, floors, crawl spaces, cathedral ceilings and basements. Manufacturers often attach a facing such as kraft paper or foil-kraft paper to act as a vapor barrier and/or air barrier. In areas where the insulation will be left exposed, such as basement walls, the batts sometimes have a special flame-resistant facing.

5. Complete drywall and interior textures; start exterior finishes: Drywall is hung and taped so the seams between the boards aren’t visible, and drywall texturing (if applicable) is completed. The primer coat of paint is also applied after taping is complete. Contractors begin installing exterior finishes such as brick, stucco, stone and siding.

6. Finish interior trim; install exterior driveways and walkways: Interior doors, baseboards, door casings, window sills, moldings, stair balusters and other decorative trim are installed, along with cabinets, vanities and fireplace mantels and surrounds. Walls get a finish coat of paint and are wallpapered where applicable.

Generally, exterior driveways, walkways and patios are formed at this stage. Many builders prefer to wait until the end of the project before pouring the driveway because heavy equipment (such as a drywall delivery truck) can damage concrete. But some builders pour the driveway as soon as the foundation is completed so that when homeowners visit the construction site, they won’t get their shoes muddy.

7. Install hard-surface flooring and countertops; complete exterior grading: Ceramic tile, vinyl and wood flooring are installed as well as countertops. Exterior finish grading is completed to ensure proper drainage away from the home and prepare the yard for landscaping.

8. Finish mechanical trims; install bathroom fixtures: Light fixtures, outlets and switches are installed and the electrical panel is completed. HVAC equipment is installed and registers completed. Sinks, toilets and faucets are put in place.

9. Install mirrors, shower doors and finish flooring; finish exterior landscaping: Mirrors, shower doors and carpeting are installed, and final cleanup takes place. Trees, shrubs and grass are planted and other exterior landscaping completed.

INSPECTION #5: A building-code official completes a final inspection and issues a certificate of occupancy (C.O.). If any defects are found during this inspection, a follow-up inspection may be scheduled to ensure that they’ve been corrected.

10. Final walkthrough: Your builder will walk you through your new home to acquaint you with its features and the operation of various systems and components, and explain your responsibilities for maintenance and upkeep as well as warranty coverage and procedures. This is often referred to as a pre-settlement walkthrough.