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Monday, July 21, 2014

Stay Cool With These Money Saving Tips

  • Don’t allow the interior of your home to become uncomfortably hot because the air conditioner cannot cool it down within a reasonable amount of time. Air conditioners are designed for about a 20° change in temperature, so 100° air would only be cooled to about 80°.
  • One of the simplest air conditioner tips is to change your air conditioner filter at least four times a year to ensure that your family is breathing cleaner air and your HVAC system is not being overworked. It could save energy and money!
  •  Run your ceiling fans to stay cooler in the summertime. Check your fans to ensure they are going in the correct direction. In the summer, your fan should be set on “forward,” which means the blades are rotating counter-clockwise. There is a switch on the base where you can control this.
  • It is fairly common for an air conditioner to ice up. The air conditioner drain line can also freeze, backup and cause a leak, which is often confused for a plumbing leak. When this happens, immediately turn off your compressor by switching your thermostat over to fan. As the ice starts to melt, make sure you have proper drainage and call a professional.
  • From dirty coils to poorly-designed ductwork, there are many things that can restrict airflow. One of our professionals can check them all and get to the root of the problem.
  • Keep heat out of your home by closing blinds, shades and draperies that cover windows facing the sun. Close coverings on east-facing windows in the morning and west-facing windows in the afternoon. Also, installing shades or blinds that are white reflects heat away from the house. This can keep you cooler and help save energy.
  • Keep your outdoor air conditioning unit cooler by planting trees or shrubs that provide shade but still allow air to flow around the unit. By properly shading the area, your system can perform up to 10% more efficiently. Also, be sure the landscaping isn’t too close to the unit, so a technician can service it easily when necessary.
  • The best defense against air conditioner problems is to have an annual home service plan in place and make sure your system is maintained year-round, especially right before the heavy heat of summer sets in. Regular tune-ups reduce your risk of experiencing common malfunctions and will help you stay cool.
  • Don’t let heat build up in your home. Appliances, electronic devices and lighting are all common sources of internal heat gain. To combat this excess heat, avoid putting lamps or televisions near your air conditioner’s thermostat. These heat-generating appliances can cause the thermostat to think the house is warmer than it really is, resulting in the system running longer than necessary and wasting energy.

Monday, July 7, 2014

Keeping a Green Lawn All Summer

According to Audubon.org, the average homeowner spends roughly 40 hours mowing their lawn each year, and we Americans spend $8.5 billion on lawn care products and equipment. Lawns are a major part of the gardening scene, with millions of acres in this country alone.

Keeping a lawn in tip-top shape can be a big job, but here is an approach that is a little more relaxed than others. 

Fertilizing your Lawn
I only fertilize my lawn a couple of times a year, once in the spring and then again in midsummer with a food specially blended for lawns. You'll find these blends higher in nitrogen than other elements (the first number in a series of numbers on the fertilizer bag). Nitrogen is what stimulates vigorous growth and deep green color. 

I feed only a couple of times a year because I discovered that fertilizing more often meant too much growth — I was working myself to death trying to keep it mowed and watered. So, by reducing the amount of fertilizer, I've saved myself time and energy. Also, by allowing my grass to grow longer, just by an inch or so more in summer, I've reduced my watering a bit more. The taller blades of grass cut down on water evaporation from the soil.

Fertilizing can be confusing because there are so many different blends out there to choose from. For instance, there are some that actually have pre-emergent herbicide mixed with the fertilizer to keep weed seeds from germinating. Turf growers have told me that if you are going to use pre-emergents, it's better not to use the blends because they're not as effective as applying pre-emergents separately from the fertilizer.

Fertilizer Spreader

It's always best to fertilize your lawn after mowing and when the grass is dry. If the grass is wet, the fertilizer will stick to the blades and burn the lawn.
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I prefer using a spreader because it ensures equal distribution of the fertilizer across the lawn, and I always load the spreader on a sidewalk or a drive just in case I spill some, which I usually do.

To get even distribution, I set the gauge at a low setting and go over the area several times, making sure that each pass of the spreader overlaps the last. This will give the lawn a nice even color without dark streaks from over-fertilized areas.  After I have fed it, I just water it in.

Lawnmower Tips
The lawn mower can be one of the most neglected tools in the garden, and that's pretty ironic when you consider it's also one of the most expensive.

To keep your mower in tip-top shape, start by disengaging the spark plug. This should be done anytime you are working on your mower. Next, drain the gasoline and oil from your lawn mower.  Any gasoline that stays in the tank for over a year can gum up your carburetor. You can handle these jobs by using just a few things from around the house.

A turkey baster is great for extracting the gasoline from the tank. It works better and easier than turning the mower upside down. For collecting the oil, try using a disposable aluminum roasting pan. After you've collected it, you'll want to dispose of it responsibly. You'll find many automobile maintenance businesses take used motor oil for recycling, and this is the most environmentally safe way to discard it.

Next, you should replace the spark plug. It's the spark plug that ignites the engine. If it's worn or corroded, you'll have difficulty starting your mower. Spark plugs are inexpensive and easy to replace.

When preparing your lawnmower for spring you should also clean the air filter and remove any old grass or debris clogging the fins of the engine cover.

And one last tip, take your mower in and have the blade sharpened and balanced. This will keep the engine working more efficiently and you will get a smoother cut on your grass.

Watering
It's best to water in early morning, very early, like 5 a.m. This gives the lawn an opportunity to dry before nightfall, a time when many types of fungus are most active. This is also usually a non-peak time for most communities' water supply. It's also much better to water early only a couple of times a week than to water lightly more often. Deep soaking encourages deep root growth, whereas light watering encourages the roots to stay close to the surface of the soil, making your lawn more susceptible to heat and drought.

Another thing to keep in mind is that an actively growing lawn this time of year will require about 1 to 1.5 inches of water per week. This of course will depend on your soil type.  Lawns can be a source of pride — just don't let the summer heat get the most of it, and you.

Brown spot repair

According to several Web sources, more than 60 million Americans own dogs and that means that many of these pet owners are facing the challenge of brown spots on their lawns.

What causes the brown spot? It's just like over-fertilizing! There is a high nitrogen content in pet urine, which causes the urine to burn the grass.  The number one thing pet owners can do to avoid brown spots is to water the area well within eight hours to dilute the high nitrogen level. When these spots go untreated you'll need to reach for the repair kit to green the grass back up. Grass repair kits are sold commercially or you can make your own by mixing sand, seed and slow-release fertilizer. 

Saturday, June 28, 2014

Design Trends in 2014

1.  Passive Homes

One of the most prevalent trends in the architectural world today is the shift towards a reduction in the consumption of energy; a reduction in carbon emissions, a focus on green principles.  The passive home deals with this entire issue of wasted energy and carbon emissions, and it’s because of this solution which PassivHaus provides which has made them the center of focus and architectural design thus far in 2014.

Passive homes will be a strong trend in 2014; but mark our words that this trend will continue to swell year on year for the foreseeable future.

2.  Designing for Relaxation

It has been said that the living of today are exposed to more information in one day (content of the New York Times) than an average person in the 17th century is exposed to in their entire lifetime.  One could argue that the type of information a person of the 17th century was exposed to is of a different kind of information in which most of us today would be blind to; but let’s focus in on the principle of information overload.

The fact is that most people don’t know how to organize and process the sheer volumes of information they face everyday; what’s important and what isn’t; etc.  It’s for this very reason more and more people are turning an area of their home into a place of retreat; a place to relax and unwind.  The most popular choice in 2014 is the home spa; a place where one can escape to and unwind. 

The home spa industry is growing at a healthy rate.  In quarter four of 2013, it grew by 10% compared to the same quarter the previous year.  It just so happens I’m a statistician by education, but it doesn’t take a statistician to tell you that a 10% increase is significant and shouldn’t be brushed aside.  The home spa industry is healthy and will continue to be a favorite in architectural design in 2014.

Further evidence of this trend can be demonstrated through new builds in the United States.  Over 50% of new builds are now equipped with a whirlpool bath.

3.  Flex Rooms

What are flex rooms?  Flex rooms are rooms or areas in the house which have a range of uses, or could be changed at some point during the year.  It’s usually a place in the house which is used for more than one purpose, for example an entrance hall also being used as a dining room.

Why is this a popular trend and why will it be strong in 2014?  The strength behind this trend can find its strength in three main factors; baby boomers, income and versatility.

Let’s start with baby boomers.  Architects are now designing homes to accommodate the growing elderly population who are opting to stay with family.  These houses have to be well organized, usually segregated from the rest of the house in some way in a self contained unit.  This allows for separation between the family (sanity preservation) and it also allows the living space to be rented out if need be.

Secondly, income.  As disposable income has dropped significantly and pensions lost in the crash of 2008, retirees have been forced to move in with their families as they simply can’t afford to live by themselves, or pay for a retirement home.

Thirdly, versatility.  Options are empowering and give the homeowner choices.  Flex rooms enable maximum usage with the space given; maximum usage output per square foot of living space – It also allows for change of use if so required.

4.  Health Conscious Designs

The materials which are used in building, decorating and furnishing the home are an issue which is being addressed by architects and designers.

Paints, upholstery, insulation, wood stain and other synthetic materials used in the home which cause hypoallergenic reactions and possible serious health problems are being replaced with those which don’t have such negative side effects.

Alternatives to these potentially unhealthy materials are always available, it’s just a matter of sourcing them at a price which clients are willing to pay.  It may be a matter of selling the potentially significant health benefits of these materials to help overcome the potential cost increase; the winning strategy to win their approval.  It’s just like the concept: If you have never had a heart attack, eat and live as though you have had one, to prevent (or at least reduce the risk) that problem from occurring.

In the same vein, architects are looking to cut down on the hypoallergenic and prospective carcinogenic materials, a trend which we’ll see in 2014.

5.  Kitchens: Hub of the Home

This is one which we particularly like; the kitchen being the focal point of the home.  No longer will the kitchen be that room which is built in the dark recesses of the house – Now it’s being elevated to center stage.  The kitchen is set to be the room in the house which is being used for more than just cooking.  We are seeing it being used as a place to think, study and work in addition to whole range of other multitasking uses.

It’s a similar dynamic to the flex home, but more specific.  Having the kitchen as the hive of activity within the house is great for bringing the family together and strengthening relationships.  It’s the trend for 2014 which should continue for years to come.

6.  Inventive Storage Capacity

You might have noticed while driving around the massive, often bold colored storage locker buildings; they’re everywhere.  It seems like this trend has grown like an out-of-control garden over the past 10 years, but there is a fundamental reason for it.  People have acquired so much ‘stuff’ they don’t know what to do with it, so much so that they are paying monthly payments to store their junk precious items in storage.

Without tackling the underlying problems that would be the job of psychiatry professionals; architects realize the need and are catering for it.  More storage space is obviously needed in the home, and they are designing varied solutions with style & finesse.  Clutter around the house can be unsightly, and in a world of design where less is more, clutter needs to be dealt with; even if it’s merely storing it.

Again, based on need, this trend is a growth trend which’ll be popular in 2014.

7.  Utilizing the Outdoors

Where the outdoors was once a place exclusively for the garden or yard, it is now being used for outdoor rooms.  The advance of outdoor eco-friendly materials has enabled architects to become more creative with the use of outdoor areas.  Space is a valuable commodity, so it makes logical sense that this trend is growing; especially as population growth increases whilst house prices remain staunch.  The trend will be especially popular in areas where the weather is kind, but even in places such as the U.K. you’ll find brave and creative architects making it work.
outdoor room 10 Hottest Fresh Architecture Trends in 2014

Monday, June 9, 2014

Tips for Being Summer Ready

After a long winter, summer's bright sun and warm winds are, well, a breath of fresh air. The only downside? All that sunshine spotlights your leaf-filled gutters, cracked sidewalks and the dead plants in last year's flower beds. Dwight Barnett, a certified master inspector with the American Society of Home Inspectors, shared this checklist to help you target the areas that need maintenance so you can get your chores done quickly, leaving you time to go outside and play in the sunshine.

    •    Check for loose or leaky gutters. Improper drainage can lead to water in the basement or crawl space. Make sure downspouts drain away from the foundation and are clear and free of debris.

    •    Low areas in the yard or next to the foundation should be filled with compacted soil. Spring rains can cause yard flooding, which can lead to foundation flooding and damage. Also, when water pools in these low areas in summer, it creates a breeding ground for insects.

    •    Use a screwdriver to probe the wood trim around windows, doors, railings and decks. Make repairs now before the spring rains do more damage to the exposed wood.

    •    From the ground, examine roof shingles to see if any were lost or damaged during winter. If your home has an older roof covering, you may want to start a budget for replacement. The summer sun can really damage roof shingles. Shingles that are cracked, buckled or loose or are missing granules need to be replaced. Flashing around plumbing vents, skylights and chimneys need to be checked and repaired by a qualified roofer.

    •    Examine the exterior of the chimney for signs of damage. Have the flue cleaned and inspected by a certified chimney sweep.

    •    Inspect concrete slabs for signs of cracks or movement. All exterior slabs except pool decks should drain away from the home's foundation. Fill cracks with a concrete crack filler or silicone caulk. When weather permits, power-wash and then seal the concrete.

    •    Remove firewood stored near the home. Firewood should be stored at least 18 inches off the ground at least 2 feet from the structure.

    •    Check outside hose faucets for freeze damage. Turn the water on and place your thumb or finger over the opening. If you can stop the flow of water, it is likely the pipe inside the home is damaged and will need to be replaced. While you're at it, check the garden hose for dry rot.

    •    Have a qualified heating and cooling contractor clean and service the outside unit of the air conditioning system. Clean coils operate more efficiently, and an annual service call will keep the system working at peak performance levels. Change interior filters on a regular basis.

    •    Check your gas- and battery-powered lawn equipment to make sure it is ready for summer use. Clean equipment and sharp cutting blades will make yard work easier.

Saturday, May 24, 2014

Home Sales Up 6.4% in April

Following two consecutive months of declines, sales of new, single-family homes rose in April to reach an annual rate of 433,000 - about 6.4% above the estimated March rate of 407,000 but 4.2% below the April 2013 rate of 452,000 - according to figures released by the U.S. Census Bureau and the Department of Housing and Urban Development.

The median sales price of new homes sold in April was $275,800. The average sales price was $320,100.

About 192,000 new homes were listed on the market in April - about a 5.3-month supply at the current sales rate.

Minutes of the Federal Reserve's April 29-30 policy meeting released earlier this week indicate that the slowdown in home sales has caught the attention of the Fed. Officials cited a range of factors for the weakness, including "higher home prices, construction bottlenecks stemming from a scarcity of labor and harsh winter weather, input cost pressures, or a shortage in the supply of available lots," according to the minutes of the Federal Open Market Committee.

Meanwhile, sales of previously owned homes rose 1.3% in April, with the inventory of existing homes for sale reaching the highest level in nearly two years, according to data released this week by the National Association of Realtors.

And mortgage rates continued to trend downward for a third week, with the average rate for a 30-year fixed-rate mortgage falling to 4.14%, according to Freddie Mac's Primary Mortgage Market Survey.

Whether the increased inventory and lower rates will result in increased home sales in June remains to be seen.

Monday, May 12, 2014

Getting Your Home Summer Ready

Before it gets too warm, it's time to make sure you're ready for hot weather. This doesn't mean running out and buying the latest swim wear. It means checking your home's heat and air-conditioning system.

Change Your Filters
First, change your filters in your heating/cooling system. Change them regularly as recommended by the manufacturer.

Test Your System
Next change your thermostat over to "cool" and test the system by turning the temperature down. If the air conditioner does not turn on, first check to make sure no breakers are tripped. If you can't figure out the problem, call your heating and air conditioning repair person. Calling early may keep you from making an "emergency" call when the temperatures are soaring and the repair people are too busy.

If your cooling system turns on, make sure it is putting out adequate cooling. If it's not, and you can't figure out the problem, call your heating and air conditioning repair person. Make sure you set it at 78 degrees.

Replacing Your AC Unit
If your air conditioner needs replacement do it BEFORE the HOT WEATHER HITS because heating & air conditioning repair people will be very busy. And more than likely, some other things around your home need attention as well. Your air ducts may need testing for leaks and then sealed. Your attic insulation probably has compacted, so you may need to add more. Your windows and doors and other parts of the building envelope may need caulking and weather stripping. You may need solar window film to keep out the heat.

Thermostat Changes
Consider changing your old thermostat to a programmable one. You can save up to $100 a year by using a new set-back thermostat. If your thermostat is really old and uses a mercury switch (a glass tube filed with silvery substance) call your local public works department to find out how to dispose of this toxic material.

Cooling the House
Consider installing a whole-house fan that uses cool air in the evening to cool the entire house and push hot air out of the attic area.

Monday, April 28, 2014

The Process of Building a Home

Building your new home is exciting, especially when you understand how the process works. The following overview outlines the typical steps in the construction of a home and will help keep you abreast of what happens at key stages.

1. Prepare site and pour foundation:
Often, site preparation and foundation work are performed by the same crew, but this may not be the case with a wooded lot. Using a backhoe and a bulldozer, the crew clears the site of rocks, debris and trees for the house and, if applicable, the septic system. The crew levels the site, puts up wooden forms to serve as a template for the foundation, and digs the holes and trenches. Footings (structures where the house interfaces with the earth that supports it) are installed. If your home is going to have a well, it will be dug at this point.

If the home has a full basement, the hole is dug, the footings are formed and poured, and the foundation walls are formed and poured. If it’s slab-on-grade, the footings are dug, formed and poured; the area between them is leveled and fitted with utility runs (e.g. plumbing drains and electrical chases); and the slab is poured.

Once concrete is poured into the holes and trenches, it will need time to cure. During this period, there will be no activity on the construction site.

After the concrete is cured, the crew applies a waterproofing membrane to the foundation walls; installs drains, sewer and water taps and any plumbing that needs to go into the first-floor slab or basement floor; and backfills excavated dirt into the hole around the foundation wall.

INSPECTION #1: When the curing process is complete, a city inspector visits the site to make sure foundation components are up to code and installed properly. This inspection may be repeated depending on the type of foundation (slab, crawl space or basement). Your builder will then remove the forms and begin coordinating step 2, the framing phase.

2. Complete rough framing: The floor systems, walls and roof systems are completed (collectively known as the shell or skeleton of the house). Plywood or oriented strand board (OSB) sheathing is applied to the exterior walls and roof, and windows and exterior doors are installed. The sheathing is then covered with a protective barrier known as a house wrap; it prevents liquid water from infiltrating the structure, while allowing water vapor to escape. This reduces the likelihood of mold and wood rot.

3. Complete rough plumbing, electrical and HVAC: Once the shell is finished, siding and roofing can be installed. At the same time, the electrical and plumbing contractors start running pipes and wires through the interior walls, ceilings and floors. Sewer lines and vents, as well as water supply lines for each fixture, are installed. Bathtubs and one-piece shower/tub units are put in place at this point because there’s more room to maneuver large, heavy objects.

Ductwork is installed for the heating, ventilation and air-conditioning (HVAC) system, and possibly the furnace. HVAC vent pipes are installed through the roof, and insulation is installed in the floors, walls and ceilings.

After the roofing goes on, the house is considered “dried in.” The electrician then installs receptacles for outlets, lights and switches and runs wires from the breaker panel to each receptacle. Wiring for telephones, cable TV and music systems is included in this work.

Note that HVAC ducts and plumbing are usually installed before wiring, because it’s easier to run wires around pipes and ducts than vice versa.

INSPECTIONS 2, 3 and 4: Rough framing, plumbing and electrical and mechanical systems are inspected for compliance with building codes. Most likely these will be three different inspections. At the very least, the framing inspection will be conducted separately from the electrical/mechanical inspections.

At this stage, drywall (also known as plasterboard, wallboard or gypsum board) is delivered to the building site. Sheetrock®, a registered trademark of USG Corporation, is sometimes used as a generic term for drywall.

4. Install insulation: Insulation plays a key role in creating a more comfortable, consistent indoor climate while significantly improving a home’s energy efficiency. One of the most important qualities of insulation is its thermal performance or R-value, which indicates how well the material resists heat transfer. Most homes are insulated in all exterior walls, as well as the attic and any floors that are located above unfinished basements or crawl spaces.

The most common types of insulation used in new homes are fiberglass, cellulose and foam. Depending on the region and climate, your builder may also use mineral wool (otherwise known as rock wool or slag wool); concrete blocks; foam board or rigid foam; insulating concrete forms (ICFs); sprayed foam; and structural insulated panels (SIPs).

Blanket insulation, which comes in batts or rolls, is typical in new-home construction. So is loose-fill and blown-in insulation, which is made of fiberglass, cellulose or mineral-wool particles. Another insulation option, liquid foam, can be sprayed, foamed-in-place, injected or poured. While it costs more than traditional batt insulation, liquid foam has twice the R-value per inch and can fill the smallest cavities, creating an effective air barrier.

Fiberglass and mineral-wool batts and rolls are usually installed in side walls, attics, floors, crawl spaces, cathedral ceilings and basements. Manufacturers often attach a facing such as kraft paper or foil-kraft paper to act as a vapor barrier and/or air barrier. In areas where the insulation will be left exposed, such as basement walls, the batts sometimes have a special flame-resistant facing.

5. Complete drywall and interior textures; start exterior finishes: Drywall is hung and taped so the seams between the boards aren’t visible, and drywall texturing (if applicable) is completed. The primer coat of paint is also applied after taping is complete. Contractors begin installing exterior finishes such as brick, stucco, stone and siding.

6. Finish interior trim; install exterior driveways and walkways: Interior doors, baseboards, door casings, window sills, moldings, stair balusters and other decorative trim are installed, along with cabinets, vanities and fireplace mantels and surrounds. Walls get a finish coat of paint and are wallpapered where applicable.

Generally, exterior driveways, walkways and patios are formed at this stage. Many builders prefer to wait until the end of the project before pouring the driveway because heavy equipment (such as a drywall delivery truck) can damage concrete. But some builders pour the driveway as soon as the foundation is completed so that when homeowners visit the construction site, they won’t get their shoes muddy.

7. Install hard-surface flooring and countertops; complete exterior grading: Ceramic tile, vinyl and wood flooring are installed as well as countertops. Exterior finish grading is completed to ensure proper drainage away from the home and prepare the yard for landscaping.

8. Finish mechanical trims; install bathroom fixtures: Light fixtures, outlets and switches are installed and the electrical panel is completed. HVAC equipment is installed and registers completed. Sinks, toilets and faucets are put in place.

9. Install mirrors, shower doors and finish flooring; finish exterior landscaping: Mirrors, shower doors and carpeting are installed, and final cleanup takes place. Trees, shrubs and grass are planted and other exterior landscaping completed.

INSPECTION #5: A building-code official completes a final inspection and issues a certificate of occupancy (C.O.). If any defects are found during this inspection, a follow-up inspection may be scheduled to ensure that they’ve been corrected.

10. Final walkthrough: Your builder will walk you through your new home to acquaint you with its features and the operation of various systems and components, and explain your responsibilities for maintenance and upkeep as well as warranty coverage and procedures. This is often referred to as a pre-settlement walkthrough.