Tips for Maintaining Your A/C System

An air conditioner's filters, coils, and fins require regular maintenance for the unit to function effectively and efficiently throughout its years of service. Neglecting necessary maintenance ensures a steady decline in air conditioning performance while energy use steadily increases. Check out our Energy Saver 101 Infographic: Home Cooling for more ways to help improve your comfort and the efficiency of your air conditioner.

AIR CONDITIONER FILTERS

The most important maintenance task that will ensure the efficiency of your air conditioner is to routinely replace or clean its filters. Clogged, dirty filters block normal airflow and reduce a system's efficiency significantly. With normal airflow obstructed, air that bypasses the filter may carry dirt directly into the evaporator coil and impair the coil's heat-absorbing capacity. Replacing a dirty, clogged filter with a clean one can lower your air conditioner's energy consumption by 5% to 15%.

For central air conditioners, filters are generally located somewhere along the return duct's length. Common filter locations are in walls, ceilings, furnaces, or in the air conditioner itself. Room air conditioners have a filter mounted in the grill that faces into the room.

Some types of filters are reusable; others must be replaced. They are available in a variety of types and efficiencies. Clean or replace your air conditioning system's filter or filters every month or two during the cooling season. Filters may need more frequent attention if the air conditioner is in constant use, is subjected to dusty conditions, or you have fur-bearing pets in the house.

AIR CONDITIONER COILS

The air conditioner's evaporator coil and condenser coil collect dirt over their months and years of service. A clean filter prevents the evaporator coil from soiling quickly. In time, however, the evaporator coil will still collect dirt. This dirt reduces airflow and insulates the coil, reducing its ability to absorb heat. To avoid this problem, check your evaporator coil every year and clean it as necessary.

Outdoor condenser coils can also become very dirty if the outdoor environment is dusty or if there is foliage nearby. You can easily see the condenser coil and notice if dirt is collecting on its fins.

You should minimize dirt and debris near the condenser unit. Your dryer vents, falling leaves, and lawn mower are all potential sources of dirt and debris. Cleaning the area around the coil, removing any debris, and trimming foliage back at least 2 feet (0.6 meters) allow for adequate airflow around the condenser.

COIL FINS

The aluminum fins on evaporator and condenser coils are easily bent and can block airflow through the coil. Air conditioning wholesalers sell a tool called a "fin comb" that will comb these fins back into nearly original condition.

CONDENSATE DRAINS

Occasionally pass a stiff wire through the unit's drain channels. Clogged drain channels prevent a unit from reducing humidity, and the resulting excess moisture may discolor walls or carpet.

PREPARING FOR WINTER

In the winter, either cover your room air conditioner or remove and store it. Covering the outdoor unit of a central air conditioner will protect the unit from winter weather and debris.

HIRING A PROFESSIONAL

When your air conditioner needs more than regular maintenance, hire a professional service technician. A well-trained technician will find and fix problems in your air conditioning system.

The technician should:

Check for correct amount of refrigerant

Test for refrigerant leaks using a leak detector

Capture any refrigerant that must be evacuated from the system, instead of illegally releasing it to the  atmosphere

Check for and seal duct leakage in central systems

Measure airflow through the evaporator coil

Verify the correct electric control sequence and make sure that the heating system and cooling system cannot operate simultaneously

Inspect electric terminals, clean and tighten connections, and apply a non-conductive coating if necessary

Oil motors and check belts for tightness and wear

Check the accuracy of the thermostat.

Upgrade Your Kitchen Without Breaking the Bank

Freshening up your kitchen decor doesn't have to be a nightmarish haze of blown budgets and chaotic schedules. In fact, making over your kitchen can be as easy as pie! Toronto-based interior stylist Lisa Canning, offers her five go-to budget-friendly tips for cooking up amazing decor schemes for your culinary space.

Kitchen makeover tip #1: Redoing the counters 

When it comes to revamping the counters, Lisa suggests spending as much as you can afford. "Counters, especially in open concept layouts, play a prominent visual and functional role in the kitchen. When we work with clients on kitchens, I often build the budget around the countertops," she says.

Popular marble options and other natural stones often require a lot of maintenance, which is a lot of additional cost on top of an already sizable price tag. So Lisa recommends quartz, because it is available in a variety of colors and is virtually indestructible. In other words, it's a lasting investment.

For a more cost-effective option, try laminate. "My favorite place to source economic, modern looking laminate counters is IKEA," says Lisa. "They sell pre-cut counters with a very simple profile that make a great statement on a budget."

Another insider tip, Lisa says, is to source off-cuts. "Many stone fabricators will keep on hand off-cuts from larger pieces and these off-cuts are sold at a reduced cost," she explains.

Kitchen makeover tip #2: Kitchen cabinets 

The easiest way to get fabulous new cabinets without breaking the bank is to simply reface your doors. "Refacing cabinet doors is a process where your original doors are removed, sprayed off-site and then installed back in place," explains Lisa. After all, how often do guests go nosing through your kitchen cabinets to if the doors perfectly match the interior? It can be your little secret!

Just be sure to check for any sagging or warping in the shelves before refacing, says Lisa. "And look for mould or water damage in the interior of the cabinet," she adds.

Kitchen makeover tip #3: Spectacular sinks

To achieve a seamless look, Lisa recommends buying an undermount sink. "Keep in mind scale when selecting your sink size," she advises. "In smaller condo kitchens (especially ones that include a dishwasher) a large sink may eat up your counter space and look disproportionate."

For color-loving enthusiasts, Lisa recommends Jonathan Adler's designs for Kohler - her personal favorite line. "Bright pops of color are unexpected and very fun in the kitchen sink," she says. 

Kitchen makeover tip #4: Back to backsplashes

"The backsplash is like jewelry in the kitchen," says Lisa. "It's a spot where you can inject personality, color, pattern and shine."

Porcelain subway tile is a pretty go-to option when budget is a concern. It always looks effortlessly elegant and suits a variety of color schemes and decor styles.

"Another way to stretch your dollar (so you can afford quartz counters) is to visit retailers like Habitat for Humanity's Re-Store and see what treasures you can find by way of tiles or stone off-cuts," says Lisa.

Of course, Craigslist and Kijiji are other fantastic places to scour for great, unexpected kitchen makeover deals.

Kitchen makeover tip #5: Fabulous floors

Surprisingly, Lisa's all-time favorite flooring options for kitchens on a budget is marmoleum. "What's fun about marmoleum is that you can create stripes, borders and patterns in the many colors and textures this product comes in," she says. "It's incredibly comfortable underfoot and requires very little maintenance."

Sticker tiles designed to mimic the aesthetic of wooden plans are another easy option for DIY kitchen renovators.

A third option to consider is porcelain tiles. "I like using a grout colour that is as close a match as possible for a seamless, integrated look," says Lisa about using porcelain flooring in her design projects.

General kitchen makeover tips

Although it may seem obvious, Lisa says that the greatest advice she can give when it comes to designing a kitchen on a budget is to, well, start with a budget. "Pick one thing in the kitchen that you really want and crunch the numbers backwards from there," she suggests.

Swapping kitchen accessories in and out, such as dishtowels and counter-worthy accessories, is another simple and effective way to change the color and feel of a kitchen with minimal cost.

Lastly, Lisa adds, never underestimate the power of paint. You can update your kitchen with paint in a variety of ways and change hardware on cupboards and drawers to give your space the feeling of a brand new kitchen.

Whatever your kitchen dreams may be, following these budget-friendly tips are a recipe for success!

Housing Market Up Any Way You Look At It!

About two years ago, I declared that the U.S. housing market had “officially” recovered.

And now, with some indicators showing that real estate is the healthiest it’s been in a decade, I hope I can now officially declare my previous declaration as spot-on.

I know, I know … all of you who recently bought a home are asking me to find the nearest wooden object and knock vigorously on it. But current and prospective homeowners shouldn’t let the epic pain of the previous housing crisis color their expectations forever. With each passing month, the recovery in housing looks to be not only sustainable, but even gathering steam.

For the record, I do not view any of these encouraging metrics as grounds for irresponsible speculation or reason to attend a house-flipping seminar at the airport Marriott. I also do not think houses should ever be viewed as investments in the traditional sense — and not just for cold logic, such as the fact that real estate is illiquid, but also because of philosophical reasons such as the concept of a home being valued at more than simply what’s on your property assessment. But all that said, there are good reasons to expect home values to keep rising.

Here’s why:

Prices

Yes, the pace of increases in home prices has cooled, but given past experiences with an overheated housing market, that’s not a bad thing. According to the latest Case-Shiller data from the end of May, home values rose 5% from a year earlier in the 20-city index. Separately, real estate data firm FNC tallied a 5.3% increase in its larger 100-city price survey. So prices still are rising, albeit at a more moderate pace.

Equity

Digging deeper into prices and home values, CoreLogic just released a report that revealed another quarter of a million U.S. homes had equity that topped mortgage debt in the first quarter. The slow but steady trend of homeowners moving back into the black has quietly become an impressive story, with 44.9 million homes now reporting equity, or 90% of all mortgaged properties, according to CoreLogic data. Not only does this kind of environment breed confidence, it also creates stability as homeowners are not struggling to make payments on an underwater home or biting off more than they can chew.

Loans

The Mortgage Bankers Association reported in its latest weekly survey that applications from prospective borrowers were up 8.4% on a seasonally adjusted basis. The American Bankers Association said in its recently released annual survey that loans to first-time homebuyers have ticked up to 14%, the highest level in the history of the 22-year-old survey. More applications and loans are great, but it’s also crucial to note that the quality of those loans is strong, too. Consider the number of loans in foreclosure are at the lowest level since November 2007, with just 1.4% of mortgages in distress.

Construction

While housing starts pulled back a bit in May, it’s important to remember that came after a red-hot April that shows big optimism on the part of homebuilders as they broke ground on new homes at an impressive clip. The latest numbers showed upward revisions to the past two months, too, after impressive numbers previously. Also, permits surged 12% to the highest level since summer 2007 to show strong momentum that should carry this trend of robust construction through the coming months.

Confidence

The National Association of Home Builders reported that builder confidence was rebounding after a slow start to the year, and up to a nine-month high. Not only did this top expectations, but it put the NAHB survey firmly in expansion mode, with a reading of 59; anything above 50 signals a favorable view. Furthermore, expectations of sales now and in the future “are at their highest levels since the last quarter of 2005, indicating a growing optimism among builders that housing will continue to strengthen in the months ahead,” according to the NAHB.

Supply

There is plenty of room for new supply, too, considering that Federal Reserve data show the current inventory of existing homes is only 4.8 months, down sharply from a one-year supply at the peak of the housing crisis and back in line with 2005 levels. The National Association of Realtors reports that total listings are down 15.7% year-over-year.

Consumer finances

It’s reductive but fairly true: The health of the housing market is a reflection of the health of American family budgets, with the two waxing and waning together. And as I noted recently in my bullish assessment of the U.S. economy and stock market, consumers are doing very well, thanks to a better job market, and upward movement on wages, as indicated in the May unemployment report. Retail sales have reflected this strength, too, with better numbers lately. And according to the Federal Reserve, American families’ net worth has surged to a new record, owing to a rebound in the economy, stock market and home values. That all adds up to a bright outlook for consumer confidence, and for the housing market as a result.

Tips For Proper Yard Drainage

Standing water next to your home’s foundation is trouble. It saturates the soil and can seep into basement cracks, leading to water damage and mold growth. Draining the water away from the house requires creating a sloping yard, when possible, and installing guttering to divert roof runoff. In some cases, the installation of a buried drainage system is necessary. A homeowner’s drainage options depend on the geography of the yard, building development rules and budget.

Grading the Yard

A 2 percent grade away from the foundation is adequate for most yards. This equals a 2 foot drop over a distance of 100 feet. A shallower grade will not drain as quickly and a steeper grade might be subject to erosion. During new home construction, the contractor grades the yard after the foundation is in place, but for existing homes, the homeowner may need to have topsoil delivered to raise the level of the soil around the house. The caveat when raising the yard level is that the soil should not be closer than 6 inches from the bottom of the siding. This 6 inch space is often required by local building codes to reduce the risk of wood-boring insects entering the home.

Guttering

Without guttering and downspouts, rainwater runs off the roof and can pool next to the foundation. Even if your yard has the correct grade, the force of the roof runoff from a heavy rain can dig a trench along the foundation that will hold water. Install guttering and downspouts and add downspout extensions that carry runoff at least 5 feet away from the foundation.Trench Drains and Swales

Talk to a contractor about adding swales to your yard if the existing grading already is within 6 inches of your siding. If that's your situation, it’s not feasible to raise the grade of your yard. An excavation contractor can create a series of swales, which are similar to shallow ditches, for diverting water away from the house. When your house sits at the bottom of a sloping yard, you can install a trench drain between the foundation and the yard. Water will run into the trench and run to a collection pond or to a storm sewer. Trench drains typically feature a U-shaped trough made from heavy PVC or a similar material. The contractor installs the trough with its top level with the ground and then pours concrete around the trough to stabilize it. A metal drain fits on top, which allows water to run into the trench drain.

Drainage Considerations

Check your plans with your housing association or municipal code enforcement office. Most housing developments regulate the way in which water drains. When the developer plans the subdivision, preparations are made to install storm sewers beneath the street and to form gutters that carry water to the storm sewers. Easements and property lines are also common routes for carrying water to the storm sewers. Fill dirt left in easements or a neighbor’s yard draining onto your yard can create problems. Your municipal inspector can consult the development plat to determine whether the municipality or an adjacent neighbor must address the issue. Likewise, if your yard-grading efforts create a drainage problem for your neighbor, you might be required to correct the problem.

Waterproof Your Home In One Weekend

Spring brings with it many pleasures: flowers, sunshine, and the return of baseball season, to name just a few. It also brings with it rain – sometimes lots of rain. All that rain unleashes the eroding power of water upon your house and yard, and can cause tremendous damage to your home and its value if left unchecked. Fortunately, a short amount of time spent in upkeep chores can help your home weather spring showers and summer storms. Here are five ways to waterproof your home in one weekend:

1) Rain gutter repairs

Nobody likes to clean or repair gutters. However, there are a few ways to make the job easier. First, for clogged downspouts, try using barbecue tongs to reach in and pull the leaves out. This doesn’t always work but considering the alternative — using a hose to flush the clog out, getting wet and covered with gutter goop — it’s worth a try.

Second, to repair loose gutter nails try replacing them with extra-long lag screws. The lag screws tend to be stronger, hold better and can easily be installed with a cordless drill equipped with a nut driver bit.

2) Repairing cracks in concrete

Concrete always cracks, but that doesn’t mean you have to live with it that way. For most cracks less than 1/4″, applying concrete caulk is a good way to make repairs. Just clean the crack out with a high-pressure hose nozzle, let it dry and then apply the caulk into the crack.

For larger cracks, substitute concrete patch for caulk. Large cracks or small, repair is necessary because water that finds its way into cracks will soften the ground underneath and cause more cracking. The situation worsens if the water freezes.

3) Sticky windows and doors

With all the wet weather that spring brings, wooden windows and doors can’t help but swell and stick. To repair a sticky door or window, first mark where it is sticking. Next, remove the door or window by taking out its hinge pins, prop it up securely and with a hand plane, carefully remove any excess material. Power planes will work, too, but there is a tendency to remove too much. When the wood shrinks back during the drier, warmer days of summer, the gap will be too wide.

For sliding windows, often the trim around them is the culprit and must be removed and reinstalled to allow for more movement. To do this, carefully remove the trim with a flat bar and pull the nails out backwards that is, grasp the nail point with pliers and pull. If the trim was installed properly with finishing nails, you should be able to do this without damaging the wood. When reinstalling, keep the fit snug but not as tight as it was. If you reinstall the trim too loosely, the windows will rattle when the wood shrinks again.

To keep windows and doors from sticking in the first place, make sure that they are sealed with a good coat of paint, including the tops and bottoms. But dont paint the channels where windows need to slide. Instead, use a light coat of linseed oil as a sealer.

4) Painting over water damage

The problem with water stains is that painting over them will not make them go away unless you use a primer-sealer first. When looking for a sealer, follow these basic guidelines: First, oil-based sealers usually work better than water-based. Second, choose a sealer that has a high amount of solids. Solids consist of pigments and other elements that do the actual covering of the stain. Paint, hardware and home centers carry primer-sealers (sometimes called sealer-primers) such as Kilz and Zinsser.

One other tip when using an oil-based sealer, consider using disposable brushes and rollers. Cleaning up after using oil-based products can be messy and often requires that you spend more on paint thinner than your brushes and rollers are worth.

5) Painting and repairing rusty fixtures

It used to be that the only way to do a good paint job over rust was to get out the naval jelly or wire brush and remove the rust first. Thankfully, paint additives are now available to help paint stick to rust while also neutralizing the rust and stopping corrosion from continuing under the paint.

If left untreated, rust will eventually cause your fixtures to lock up. Prevent this by keeping fixtures well lubricated. One of the most common mistakes people make is trying to lubricate outdoor fixtures with light oil or silicon from spray cans. Because these oils are so light, they often evaporate and/or dilute existing lubrication thereby making the problem worse. For fixtures like gate hinges and latches, use heavy grease. It will not evaporate and its heavy viscosity is the best thing for heavy-duty parts. Most auto parts stores have heavy grease.

Choosing the Right Storm Door for Your House

Storm doors block drafts in the winter, helping to minimize energy loss. Many have clip-in tempered glass panels you can remove and replace with insect screen panels for summer. In addition, storm doors protect the main door from rough weather, and newer models are so attractive they can add to your home’s curb appeal. Following are the key factors to consider before buying a new storm door.

Both storm and screen doors come in standard door widths of 30, 32, 34, and 36 inches and may be hinged on either side. (When buying one, be sure you get the right size; measure the door’s opening between the door jambs, not the door itself.) Most storm doors are sold as pre-hung units. They may be hinged on either side, and double-door kits are available. These pre-framed modules are relatively easy to screw onto existing door jambs; a do-it-yourselfer with reasonable skills can generally install one in an afternoon.

The major manufacturers also offer design-your-own-door programs, where you can mix and match components. Larson’s Designer Door series lets consumers pick the frame and its color and then choose from six styles of glass and six styles of designer hardware. You leave the store with three boxes: door frame, glass, and hardware. Both Cole Sewell and EMCO have similar programs.

When choosing a storm door, one of your first choices will be the type and size of window and screen system. Many are made so that you can interchange the clip-in glass panels with insect screening. Some have panels that bypass each other in tracks. Still others are made so that the unused panel stores in the door. EMCO has a patented self-storing window that easily slides down inside the door, out of view.

A full-height glass panel is best if you want to display your front door or maximize light and views through the storm door. More common is the mid-view type of door that has a solid panel at the bottom third of the door; this gives you more ventilation control because you can open or close each section independently. A high-view door is similar, but the glazed section only extends to about half the door’s height.

Another key consideration is the door’s construction. All major storm-door makers produce doors that have a solid-wood core clad with a permanently bonded skin of aluminum that has been given a baked-on enamel finish. The wood core makes these doors feel sturdy; they don’t twist, rattle, or dent. The aluminum surface is nearly maintenance-free but it can scratch.

A newer technology is a composite door called the Forever Ultra-Core, made by EMCO. The material is very tough, with a molded-through color, so if the door is scratched the color still remains. The door is also impervious to water. This door ranges in price from $155 to $190.

Larson also makes a 1 1/2-inch heavy-gauge foam-filled aluminum door called Classic View that is lighter in weight and allows for a full-frame glass panel—a good choice if you want to show off your prime door. If you want the storm door to be the main focus, it’s offered in eight colors. You can get it with any of several glazings and fitted with solid-brass levers and keyed locks. These doors cost from $200 to $250.

Vinyl-clad doors tend to be less expensive—in the $75 to $150 range. Some people like the fact that vinyl doesn’t rust and scratches barely show. On the other hand, vinyl doesn’t have the durable feel of aluminum cladding, and vinyl-clad doors are often warrantied for only five years or less.

If security is an important issue, you’ll want to opt for substance over style. Security doors often have a heavy-duty aluminum frame with a foam or solid-wood core. Choose heavy-gauge aluminum bars, designed to withstand pulling forces greater than 250 pounds or—better yet—steel bars that have been welded in place. Hinges and deadbolts should be tamper-proof.

Storm doors are sold through home centers, lumberyards, and major home improvement chains. You can also look up door and window companies online or in the telephone directory. In all but the warmest regions, large chains typically have a broad selection, often 20 to 25 models on display and then additional offerings through catalogs. Larson offers its entire line in a point-of-purchase display and promises delivery of special orders in two weeks or less.

How do you recognize a quality door? First, feel the door, and feel how it opens and closes. A quality door will have more heft, it will close more smoothly, and you will see quality of construction. The corners and moldings will be tight and finished looking. Also pay attention to the warranty; the best doors have a limited lifetime warranty.

If you know the brand of exterior door in your home, check to see if the manufacturer also provides a door kit for storms and screens. This is an especially good idea if you have a sliding or French door. The kit will match the design of the door and will fit properly over the threshold

Tips for Storm Proofing Your House

Protect your windows and doors. Whether with impact-resistant glass or shutters, protecting doors and windows against high winds and flying debris is imperative. Hurricane-force winds can hurl objects that act like bullets

Keep your landscape free of debris. Prune trees and remove dead branches well before the hurricane shows up. Also remove any patio furniture and other loose items outside that can get blown around.

Mind the door. Garage doors are real weak spots for hurricane-force winds. If the door gives way, the winds can enter the house and cause the roof to be torn off. Prevent this by making sure the garage door is installed to withstand these forces or brace an existing door to prevent its giving way.

Let the water flow. While you should always keep your gutters and downspouts clean, it's particularly important to make sure nothing blocks flowing water during a storm. Let's face it, the water will want to go somewhere. If it's not down and away, it'll be in your roof and attic. Conduct a visual inspection of your gutters and downspouts to be sure nothing blocks the flow of water from your roof and away from your home.

Keep the power on. While you and your home hopefully will weather the storm, the power grid likely won't. Having a standby generator to produce electrical power can't be beat. While you can install a whole-house system, you don't have to. If the generator is smaller and keeps only the essentials going, you'll be able to withstand the storm's after effects that much better.

Keep basic supplies on hand. Keep on hand at least a three-day supply of items such as candles, batteries, potable water, foods that don't require refrigeration etc. Put together an emergency kit as recommended by the Federal Emergency Management Agency well in advance of any storm.